I wanted to know what precautions I should take for storing an engine for a few months this winter to make sure I don't have any nasty surprises once I install the engine. The engine is currently sitting on a stack of two pallets and a tire under it supporting it upright as it would be in a car.

 

Engine will be sitting in a barn. Non heated

 

Just make sure all the holes are covered and any wiring you care about is off the engine. Nothing else special needed.

Only reason to remove the wiring is so rodents dont think they found a midnight snack.

I'd probably tape off all the sensors too where they plug in.

 

You can buy engine bags from summit for a few $....wrap it up to keep moisture out. If storing it longer, put some oil in it and turn the engine upside down for a few minutes to coat everything. I've had an engine stored for a couple of years....I just put some marvel oil down the cylinders and rotate every so often to keep the valve springs from sitting.

 

If it's going to get REALLY cold, I would make sure all the coolant is drained out of it, too.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys I just wanna make sure nothing happens to it it's gonna be sitting for a few months at most probably. And the hoses have been disconnected as far as coolant goes so there should be anything in there I wouldn't think. And I will make sure I rotate it a few times as well

 

If you don't mind replacing them, pull the freeze plugs and remove the drain plugs before you rotate the block; put all new in when you get done. Also, after getting the water out, you can fog the jacket with a lubricant that will stick good enough to help keep it from rusting any.

RwP

 

Do you think that it will be bad if I don't do that? It's gonna be stored for only a few months probably, you think rust in the motor would take hold that quick?. And when u say drain plugs what r u referring to? Also whats the best way to remove and install freeze plugs??

 

1) Probably not; it just helps to remove all the old coolant.

2) The pipe plugs that seal up the block drainage holes, natch. You'll see them when you look at the motor.

3) Remove - Probably the big-screwdriver-through-and-twist. Install - use either a proper driver (like a seal driver), or a block of wood slightly larger than the plug to whack. If you use the typical socket-inside-the-plug method, it can warp the plug enough that it doesn't hold during stress like it's supposed to (as in "When the coolant hits 240F during that long summer climb" stress.)

RwP

 

Ohh okay so if I remove the pipe plugs I can make sure all the old coolant comes out? And the pipe plugs take any kind of like thread tape or anything or just twist them back in dry?

So basically poke screwdriver through the freeze plug and twist it out. And if I remove a freeze plug will it make sure the block doesn't crack if it freezes? And I would use the block of wood method then. Do I need to put any kind of sealer around the plug when I install?