92 dakota 4x4 v8.looking for somewherew to buy a complete rebuild kit from.have already checked ebay.any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

Honestly, you won't find one. But what i will tell you is don't waste any money on anything that isn't Moog. Moog parts 99% won't ever need to be changed again. Its costly but worth it. Cheap parts you'll be replacing in 6-18 months.

Order off advanced auto parts and use online coupon codes. Break up the order into many orders as needed to use many codes as you can.

 

I've heard that Moog has gone downhill as of late (from my parts store buddy and also online), but nearly every piece of my front steering and suspension is Moog and I've had no trouble yet. Upper and lower ball joints, tie rods and adjusters, UCA bushings, sway bar bushings, idler arm, pitman arm. All installed without issue. Even if Moog quality isn't what it used to be, I don't think you'll find anything better at least for these trucks.

Fwiw, the rest of my front end is KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, Raybestos hubs, and some universal bumpstop mounts to replace the rotted ones. Love it, it drives like it's on rails.

Okay, not really, but it's tight as I could hope for.

Edit, and everything mentioned above was purchased from RockAuto.com except for the energy suspension bushings. Nothing but good things to say about RockAuto, I've spent well over $3k there since 2012

 

Moog HAS gone downhill, alas.

Seems like Spicer has taken over with their Pro line; these are usually purchased as ACDelco Professional Grade or Advanced Technology, or Raybestos Professional Grade or Advanced Technology (AT if they list it, PG if they don't list AT; never Service Grade.)

And I also used Energy Suspension front bushings; I don't regret that at all on my Dakota (a 1988 LWB standard cab that will see close to 40,000 miles this year ... )

I'll be needing to swap the shocks soon, though - the Monroes are dying on it. That, or the roads are getting a LOT more bouncy and floaty than they were just six months ago; either one is possible. KYB Gas-A-Just are on my list since I drive daily and am a Grandpaw, driving like a Grandpaw *grins* If I were heavy into trucking, I'd look more at Ranchos as a choice.

My two cents worth, everyone has an opinion, TTL extra, YMMV, Batteries not included, and all the other disclaimers *grins*

Oh - and if you're thinking on buying for price. Do everyone a favor. DON'T

DO shop for the quality parts; but there's a bunch of people who make cheap crap (almost all the parts are made in China, so that's not a good determiner, but there's a difference between quality Made in China and the cheep chinesium Made in China). Get the good stuff; it'll last longer, it'll last better, the truck will drive better, and everyone on the road will be safer.

RwP

 

The biggest issue you will find, is if you are looking for lower control arm bushings, you won't find them. Look around for the info, but what guys do is get lower arm bushings from energy suspension for a second gen. One will fit, the other needs to be cut down (length wise) to fit the first gen control arm.

 

Dalemo post some pics of the job if you can. I need to do this too but I have no idea what to change and fear doing it then finding I missed something that I have to remove everything to get to again.

 

I don't mean to self promote but I think this might be helpful for you. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...placement.html

There's a list on the first post of everything related to suspension and steering that I did. I removed every component of suspension and steering. There's also a link to my Photobucket album which is unfortunately quite poorly organized.

I think I'll just drop the list here at least and if anyone wants more info go to my thread or feel free to ask.

Suspension/Steering

• Ball joint (upper; threaded) - Moog K778
• Ball joint (lower; pressed-in) - Moog K7155
• Control arm bushings (upper) - Moog K7084
• Control arm bushings (lower) - Adapted from Energy Suspension 5.3139G (see HERE or search "How to: Dakota Gen 1 4x4 Lower Control Arm Bushings" to find RobertMC's excellent write-up)
• Idler Arm - Moog K7169
• Pitman Arm - Moog K7156
  
• Tie Rod End Outer - Moog ES3098RL
• Tie Rod End Inner - Moog ES3099RL
• Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - Moog ES2080S
  
• Shock Absorber (front) - KYB KG5469
• Shock Absorber (rear) - KYB KG5471
• U-bolts (leaf spring) - 9/16" x 2 1/2" x 8 3/4" Square U-bolts kit from autoandtrucksprings.com BT5-0086S
• U-bolt saddle plate (sits on top of leaf pack) - Could only find HERE (ATS Springs "Dodge Upper U-Bolt Saddle Plate, fits 2-1/2" Wide Dodge Rear Leaf Spring")
• Leaf Spring Bushings - Energy Suspension 5.2107G
• Leaf Spring Shackle - From SDtrucksprings.com part # M1745: Dodge Shackle for 1/2" Spring bolts and 2.5" wide spring
• Upper Control Arm Bumpstop - Energy Suspension 9.9103
• Lower Control Arm Bumpstop - Belltech 4923 (***NOT A DIRECT FIT, REQUIRES DRILLING)
• Stabilizer Bar Bushing Front to Control Arm - Moog K7357
  
• Stabilizer Bar Bushing Front to Frame - Moog K7355
• Power Steering Pressure Hose - Edelmann 71816
• Power Steering Return Hose - Edelmann 80421
• Torsion Bars cranked to approximately level the front of the truck.

 

Thanks Tbugden! Are there any of them I should get two of? I honestly recognize most of the part names but have no idea how many or where they go yet. I still have to read your link and my FSM.

 

Some of the parts are sold in pairs such as the sway bar bushings so you'd need only to order one. But ball joints, tie rods, etc are all typically sold singular and you'll need to purchase for both sides. Just double check when you buy and also don't assume I got all the best parts...I tried to but you may find better quality products for some of these components.

All the front suspension stuff was pretty easy. The LCA bushings from Energy Suspension need to be modifed but that only requires patience. The biggest pain for me was the threaded in upper ball joints. Heat, penetrating oil, TONS of torque and I still couldn't get them out. Had to press them out but luckily doing so seemed to strip the ball joint threads, not the control arm threads.

 

I'd love to rebuild front end of my '93! Don't know if I can do it though. Think I'll at least get new shocks, rear too.