Surging at idle and not stay running after warmup
#1
Surging at idle and not stay running after warmup
Okay so...ive got a 92 Dakota 4x4. It has a 360 swap from a 94 ram, i did not do the swap i bought it with the truck.
Bought the truck earlier this year probably June this year. Truck wasnt running at the time but would crank over, i started to check things and realized someone had broken a timing cover bolt in the block i decided to have the engine rebuilt by a local shop that specializes in dodge engines. He finishesd the rebuild and the truck starts good and runs okay, but it has a terrible surge and it seems after it warms up it will not stay running. Kinda just dies. No codes in the computer. I have replace the distribuor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, entire cooling system, checked over the entire wire harness for breaks or corrosion, replaced fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, ignition coil. Vacuum is good to my knowledge. I really, really need a hand here. If anyone knows anything or has any suggestions, please post them...i dont want to have to give up and take the whole truck down there and have the shop look at it yet.
Bought the truck earlier this year probably June this year. Truck wasnt running at the time but would crank over, i started to check things and realized someone had broken a timing cover bolt in the block i decided to have the engine rebuilt by a local shop that specializes in dodge engines. He finishesd the rebuild and the truck starts good and runs okay, but it has a terrible surge and it seems after it warms up it will not stay running. Kinda just dies. No codes in the computer. I have replace the distribuor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, entire cooling system, checked over the entire wire harness for breaks or corrosion, replaced fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, ignition coil. Vacuum is good to my knowledge. I really, really need a hand here. If anyone knows anything or has any suggestions, please post them...i dont want to have to give up and take the whole truck down there and have the shop look at it yet.
#2
A few ideas:
What vacuum test did you do? You could have a leak.
Check the electrical connections clean them and lube them especially the PCM.
Check the Oxygen sensor.
Find out if the builder installed a new crank sensor.
Did he use new injectors? Are they correct size?
Did the builder do the fuel synchronization to be sure the injectors were firing at the right time?
What vacuum test did you do? You could have a leak.
Check the electrical connections clean them and lube them especially the PCM.
Check the Oxygen sensor.
Find out if the builder installed a new crank sensor.
Did he use new injectors? Are they correct size?
Did the builder do the fuel synchronization to be sure the injectors were firing at the right time?
Last edited by onemore94dak; 12-21-2016 at 05:00 PM.
#3
Has it ever ran correctly since the engine conversion?
Was the truck's orig. engine a 3.9 or 5.2?
Are the injectors matched to the computer?
I think the 360 used a different sized injector then the 318. So if you are using a 360 injector with a 318 computer, or vice versa its going to likely be rich or lean and this could be causing the problem.
I would check firing order and make sure its correct, etc.
Then use a scanner, and not just a code reader to see what is happening. ie. look at the O2 sensor, does it move? Coolant sensor, is it working properly? etc.
Was the truck's orig. engine a 3.9 or 5.2?
Are the injectors matched to the computer?
I think the 360 used a different sized injector then the 318. So if you are using a 360 injector with a 318 computer, or vice versa its going to likely be rich or lean and this could be causing the problem.
I would check firing order and make sure its correct, etc.
Then use a scanner, and not just a code reader to see what is happening. ie. look at the O2 sensor, does it move? Coolant sensor, is it working properly? etc.
#4
It has been far too long that I haven't replied to this forum. I had a rough start to the year with back to back car accidents, which neither I might add were my fault. The Dakota was in a garage though so no damage here just the original problem still.
I will add something I don't think was in my original post, it seems to be just a little out of time. Also, it seems it will only rev up to about 4000 RPM and hold smoothly without loss of manifold pressure. I replaced the distributor this weekend thinking that was part of the issue, granted it does run better...still no dice.
I have not smoothly ran the engine since I bought the stupid thing. How would I go about checking the injectors? I did buy a 5.9L computer from a 94' 1500 that had the 5.9L since everything from the 94' 1500 and 92' Dakota are pretty much plug and play from what I understand...
Also, to which 'Scanner' are you referring? This is an OBD I truck not OBD II.
Again I do apologize for the extended delay in reply, but I really do appreciate any help you guys can give.
I will add something I don't think was in my original post, it seems to be just a little out of time. Also, it seems it will only rev up to about 4000 RPM and hold smoothly without loss of manifold pressure. I replaced the distributor this weekend thinking that was part of the issue, granted it does run better...still no dice.
I have not smoothly ran the engine since I bought the stupid thing. How would I go about checking the injectors? I did buy a 5.9L computer from a 94' 1500 that had the 5.9L since everything from the 94' 1500 and 92' Dakota are pretty much plug and play from what I understand...
Also, to which 'Scanner' are you referring? This is an OBD I truck not OBD II.
Again I do apologize for the extended delay in reply, but I really do appreciate any help you guys can give.
#5
I use the Snapon MT2500 from Ebay. I paid $300. It can tell you a lot. I hear you can get apps for your phone if you carry one. Then you only have to by a bluetooth plug for the connection.
With the mention of rpms staying down it sounds like mine when I got it. If its auto do some reading about the tranny. Get a factory manual. The key dance will tell you if you have codes. Read the FAQ page on codes it explains how to check them with just the key.
With the mention of rpms staying down it sounds like mine when I got it. If its auto do some reading about the tranny. Get a factory manual. The key dance will tell you if you have codes. Read the FAQ page on codes it explains how to check them with just the key.
#7
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#8
Sweet. Buying one on eBay right now, but I thought I'd ask first.
If there is a timing issue somewhere, how easy would it be to poinpoint with the scanner?
If the injectors or computer isn't "synced", could the MT2500 sync the injectors?
What would you suggest to be the things to look at?
Forgive me if these are considered stupid questions, I have never used this tool before and I would like to know just how beneficial it will be for me. E.G I think I am starting to think of it as my savior, even though i've never even seen one before let alone know if it will help diagnose my problem.
If there is a timing issue somewhere, how easy would it be to poinpoint with the scanner?
If the injectors or computer isn't "synced", could the MT2500 sync the injectors?
What would you suggest to be the things to look at?
Forgive me if these are considered stupid questions, I have never used this tool before and I would like to know just how beneficial it will be for me. E.G I think I am starting to think of it as my savior, even though i've never even seen one before let alone know if it will help diagnose my problem.
#9