rear end
Posy? You mean a limited slip?
For the strip only, skip that, go for a Detroit Locker and be done.
If, however, street usage is desired, stick with a Sure Grip or a Mopar TrakLok (not to be confused with a Ford TrakLock ... )
RwP
For the strip only, skip that, go for a Detroit Locker and be done.
If, however, street usage is desired, stick with a Sure Grip or a Mopar TrakLok (not to be confused with a Ford TrakLock ... )
RwP
OK if cost is not a problem, then IMO the best rear end running a posi of some sort, would be a Dana 60. And as ralph said, a detroit locker is about as strong as it gets, but IMO there are some drawbacks to the locker vs the clutch style posi units.
But, if price is a consideration, keep in mind, what breaks rear ends is traction. You never said if its a automatic or 5 speed, and if a automatic what stall converter you will be running. Also tires make a difference too, ie street, drag radials, full slicks, etc.
If this is an occasional drag truck, hp 300-450 or so, 2000-3000 stall converter, and drag radials, you will probably be ok with a factory 8.25 rear end. Assuming its in good shape.
If you have not drag raced before, let me give you one piece of advise. When pulling into the water to wet your tires for the burnout, make sure you wet both tires. There has been a lot of posi units burned up from getting one tire wet, but not the other, then doing a burnout.
But, if price is a consideration, keep in mind, what breaks rear ends is traction. You never said if its a automatic or 5 speed, and if a automatic what stall converter you will be running. Also tires make a difference too, ie street, drag radials, full slicks, etc.
If this is an occasional drag truck, hp 300-450 or so, 2000-3000 stall converter, and drag radials, you will probably be ok with a factory 8.25 rear end. Assuming its in good shape.
If you have not drag raced before, let me give you one piece of advise. When pulling into the water to wet your tires for the burnout, make sure you wet both tires. There has been a lot of posi units burned up from getting one tire wet, but not the other, then doing a burnout.
Yah, for a "mere" 300HP, a well maintained SureGrip will be a better choice than swapping to a GM differential.
(Hint: Positraction is a GM trademark; so to put a posi in a Dakota, you've got to graft a GM rear end in. Generic term is "limited slip differential".)
Since you're also driving on the street, I'd avoid a locker or spool; they both can cause strange results going around corners.
RwP
(Hint: Positraction is a GM trademark; so to put a posi in a Dakota, you've got to graft a GM rear end in. Generic term is "limited slip differential".)
Since you're also driving on the street, I'd avoid a locker or spool; they both can cause strange results going around corners.
RwP
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about to install a Trak Lok into my 8-1/4 in my 96 4X4. lots of slop in the yoke, pinion bearings and their races were shot, which gave play in the crush collar that sets the preload.... fortunately I have the parts already here collecting dust
why don't rear end kits come with outer axle bearings and seals?
why don't rear end kits come with outer axle bearings and seals?
Because a 8.25 differential may be in several different rear ends, with different seals and bearings.
But yah, on a live axle, always order the axle bearings and seals for that particular application.
(Suggestiong: Order the "Repair" bearing and seal combo; it'll move where the bearing and seal sit on the axle out to "virgin" metal, avoiding possible leaks due to wear on the axle shafts. And a LOT cheaper than new axles!)
RwP
But yah, on a live axle, always order the axle bearings and seals for that particular application.
(Suggestiong: Order the "Repair" bearing and seal combo; it'll move where the bearing and seal sit on the axle out to "virgin" metal, avoiding possible leaks due to wear on the axle shafts. And a LOT cheaper than new axles!)
RwP









