A timing chain in general? Yep, almost cost me a set of pistons in my 1967 Mustang.

Seen the aftermath of a few interference motors that failed, also.

NOT a pretty sight.

If it's noisy, you also have the possibility that it's slapping the timing chain cover, and wearing it out. And they don't take all THAT much before they start to leak oil out.

So yes, I'd bother. I did on my truck with (now!) 355,000+ miles (not quite 300,000 when I had it done).

RwP

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toby Warford

wouldnt do you any good if you did or not. The computer controls the timing.

As fast as the tensioner, you should definitely get a double roller OR a tensioner, getting both is a waste of money. Adding both doesn't make it any better. Though again , one of those two should be the replacement.

Not true!!

The cam timing can be changed by using an adjustable timing gear. (usually will retard or advance cam timing 4 degrees)
Now ignition timing is a different matter.......

 

I would change it if it's noisy .. if it breaks or jumps a tooth you will hate life and be buying a new motor .. or it will slap a hole in the cover and then leak oil .. it's a fairly easy fix to change it .. make sure you keep bolts in water pump straight some are long some are short .. I make a rough drawing on cardboard and push bolts in where they belong

 

Mine was rattling for as long as I can remember. Really worn. Replaced it with a cheapy timing set. For what it's worth my truck had about 127 on it and the timing cover had no obvious signs of starting to wear through. But by 200k I'd absolutely be worried about that.

 

If it is slapping the cover .. then it's probably dumping the aluminum in the oil pan .. and that can't be good for the motor LMAO.. mine was slapping the cover at 91k truck got new double roller chain .. it has 92k on it now .. low miles for a 95 haha

 

That is a great point.

 

I installed the Cloyes timing set with a 4 degree advance, now my low end torque is very weak. What do I need to do to get the ignition timing to match up?

 

Reset to 0 advance on the cam timing.

Ignition timing, you should subtract 8* to make it match. Since the distributor is driven off the cam, and the cam is 1 revolution every 2 crank revolutions, it's now 4*2 advanced, or moved to 18* actual if you've got it set for 10* on a LA motor. And if it's a Magnum, not the LA, you've tossed the injector sync off but the timing is still fixed off the crank sensor.

So, we fall back to "Reinstall for 0* advance".

If you've got a Magnum, then you also need to consider resetting the ECU to match the cam timing; I don't know for sure how to do that on any but the 1996, and for that, it's "Call Flyin' Ryan or Hemifever and see what they can do for you."

RwP

 

I've got a 1996 Dakota with a V6. I thought I read about a mod to the crank sensor to allow it to adjust.

 

Then it's a Magnum.

Reset to 0, and save up for a 5.2 or 5.9 for it *grins*

RwP