Dodge Dakota code 27
#11
I still have not resolved this issue, or had time to throw new fuel lines at the problem. I do have new information that makes me think the fuel lines would be a waste of time.
I noticed that when I shift into neutral sometimes my rpms will dip down to 200-400, and then it seems like the engine will rev by itself. Then I have a normal idle again.
Should I check IAC? Crank sensor? Fuel pump? Based on some of the searching I've done online I'm thinking IAC. How would I test it? would I be wasting my time checking it?
I noticed that when I shift into neutral sometimes my rpms will dip down to 200-400, and then it seems like the engine will rev by itself. Then I have a normal idle again.
Should I check IAC? Crank sensor? Fuel pump? Based on some of the searching I've done online I'm thinking IAC. How would I test it? would I be wasting my time checking it?
Any of those sound like a possibility, but with the rev changes, I'd include the MAP sensor as possibility. I'd probably start by pulling the throttle body, cleaning it and cleaning the IAC & port. There's a good thread on the forum about cleaning the IAC, somewhere... I can't seem to find it.
Is your fuel pressure still low, at 28 lbs? As onemore94 was alluding to, those codes suggest injector issues are a possibility. With that low fuel pressure, could you have a leaky/stuck injector(s)?
Last edited by ragged89; 05-13-2017 at 11:14 AM.
#12
#13
Any of those sound like a possibility, but with the rev changes, I'd include the MAP sensor as possibility. I'd probably start by pulling the throttle body, cleaning it and cleaning the IAC & port. There's a good thread on the forum about cleaning the IAC, somewhere... I can't seem to find it.
Is your fuel pressure still low, at 28 lbs? As onemore94 was alluding to, those codes suggest injector issues are a possibility. With that low fuel pressure, could you have a leaky/stuck injector(s)?
Is your fuel pressure still low, at 28 lbs? As onemore94 was alluding to, those codes suggest injector issues are a possibility. With that low fuel pressure, could you have a leaky/stuck injector(s)?
#14
#15
Time to update on this... I pulled the throttle body and cleaned it again. I cleaned the IAC. It had alot of carbon in it. After that there was a huge throttle response increase, but the code came back.
Next I changed the fuel pump. I was ok with throwing the fuel pump at it in order to change the floater sensor. My gas gauge works now! The code came back.
All 8 fuel injectors were tested, the wires to the pcm are good, and the ground is good. So I know I did my wiring right when I did the swap.
The fuel pressure regulator is where it was losing fuel pressure. I have a new one on now, and the rpms no longer dip when I shift to neutral. The code came back. I tested fuel pressure again. With key on engine off it goes to 20 psi and holds. when I shut it off and go back into Key on engine off it will go up to 36 psi. So it takes 2 turns of the key to fully pressurize the system? It is running just under 30 psi still.
Next I changed the fuel pump. I was ok with throwing the fuel pump at it in order to change the floater sensor. My gas gauge works now! The code came back.
All 8 fuel injectors were tested, the wires to the pcm are good, and the ground is good. So I know I did my wiring right when I did the swap.
The fuel pressure regulator is where it was losing fuel pressure. I have a new one on now, and the rpms no longer dip when I shift to neutral. The code came back. I tested fuel pressure again. With key on engine off it goes to 20 psi and holds. when I shut it off and go back into Key on engine off it will go up to 36 psi. So it takes 2 turns of the key to fully pressurize the system? It is running just under 30 psi still.
#16
#18
As has been mentioned, check the inline fuel filter (on the frame, about the back of the cab, on the driver's side).
The 1993 should still have one; notes say that the fuel filter went away with the swap to the in-tank regulator in 1994.
Which also asks, have you checked your fuel pressure regulator?
But if you're losing pressure, I'd first make sure none of the injectors are hung open; then I'd check the regulator.
Also, how's your vacuum? The regulator uses engine vacuum to base it on (so the fuel pressure is constant against engine vacuum, not atmospheric pressure); you may have a bad vacuum house, although that would tend to keep pressure too high instead of too low.
RwP
The 1993 should still have one; notes say that the fuel filter went away with the swap to the in-tank regulator in 1994.
Which also asks, have you checked your fuel pressure regulator?
But if you're losing pressure, I'd first make sure none of the injectors are hung open; then I'd check the regulator.
Also, how's your vacuum? The regulator uses engine vacuum to base it on (so the fuel pressure is constant against engine vacuum, not atmospheric pressure); you may have a bad vacuum house, although that would tend to keep pressure too high instead of too low.
RwP
#19
Is there a way to test this? I just bought a NEW Mopar performance pcm. I just paid $330 for it, but I don't know what else to look at.
I changed the Map sensor, and took it for a drive, and the rpms dipped when I shifted to neutral. This time instead of recovering it died.
I changed the Map sensor, and took it for a drive, and the rpms dipped when I shifted to neutral. This time instead of recovering it died.
#20
I don't recall if I mentioned the possibility of an inline fuel filter? Anyway on some of these daks IDK which ones, there is an inline fuel filter on the frame rail somewhere near the front. I wouldn't hurt to change it out if you have one. I'm glad it is improving.
My problem is my wife just got a job, and I really need this truck now. Just don't know what to do at this point...