Thanks, but right now the adjusters are backed all the way in (least amount of brake) AND the drums are off. What my concern is the free wheeling, or lack thereof of the hubs themselves. I have a sure-grip 8.25 rear end, and I adjusted the side load per the FSM, with .0008 differential backlash and 75 ft-lbs torque on the side lockers. With that setup, the rear hubs don't free spin with or without the wheel on (take the drums out of the equation). They turn by hand, and of course both wheels turn in the same direction (limited slip), but as soon as I stop pushing by hand, the wheels stop turning. This is with the drive shaft off, so no transmission in play either. My concern is that the side load on the differential is too tight and I'm going to blow up my rear end.

So, what I'm wanting to know is that with a sure-grip (not open) differential, if you turn the wheels by hand can you get them free-wheeling or does it take effort to turn them all the time and as soon as you stop applying force the wheels stop turning. Cause currently that's how mine are. Because turning one wheel, turns both the pinion and the other axle and wheel and I just don't see how that could be frictionless enough to turn freely in the air.

 

Oh, I see what you're getting at; I didn't follow previously. My experience with Sure-Grip is limited, but I've owned a couple vehicles with it, the most recent being an '04 Dakota 4.7. From my (limited) experience you'll not be able to get the wheels to spin on, or free wheel when in the air. Even with the drive shaft off I think there are too many things turning in the diff, creating more friction. I do recall trying to turn one wheel by hand the way you're doing, and they turn kinda hard. They don't keep turning when you stop either. I can't say don't worry, cause I know that rear-end work often does take an experienced hand, but if it doesn't sound right once you have it on the road, your setup should be close enough to allow you to get it to a shop without any real damage. Regardless, I know its one of those things that's going to bug 'til you've driven it a while and satisfied yourself that it's OK.

Right now I've got an '04 diesel Ram 3500 that belonged to my brother, and the rear is growling like crazy. I had to drive it from PA to VA after my brother passed away in January, and I worried the whole time that it was going to have a meltdown and freeze up on me. It held together though, and now I'm just trying to get it fixed w/out spending 2k doing it. I might try rebuilding an 8.25" rear, but this is a 11.5" AAM rear and I'm not about to tackle the rebuild myself - I hear they are a pain to do.

 

Thanks!!! That's exactly the info I was looking for. Eases my mind. Muffler shop and rear-end shop will be the first two places I drive it

Happy Easter and again thanks for taking the time to respond.