So, I'm adjusting the rear drums, and the FSM isn't making sense to me. (1990 2wd)

I know how to do the star adjuster method to get them close, and I know these are self adjusting so I can take the truck out and do some reverse stops. I've adjusted the stars to where there's a bit of drag. But then the manual talks about raising the truck and "spinning" the wheels rapidly by hand and having a helper hit the brakes to adjust. My rear-end is sure-grip, and even with the drive shaft removed, there isn't any way my tires spin. There's too much drag through the rear-end gears. Plus the FSM doesn't even mention removing the drive shaft, so they certainly wouldn't spin in park. Just curious, do I have something wrong with my rear end? Should the rear tires free wheel?

Also, my entire rear setup is new...all new brake hardware, drums, etc. The FSM talks about in the above procedure backing of 30 clicks on the adjuster. I can't do that, because it only takes about 10 clicks on all new hardware before I can feel drag on the drums. Is that expected?

Brakes are pretty important, so just dotting the i's and crossing the t's here on a new build.

 

One thing is to make sure that the brakes have been activated so that they're out where the hydraulics will put them.

After that, I dunno why all the "do it while it's spinning" and " have an assistant hit the brake pedal" comes from. I didn't do that either ...

RwP

 

More importantly, tho, can you spin your rear wheels and have them free-wheel through the differential?

Also, this is my first time bleeding an entire system....I bench bled the new Master Cylinder. I was able to get fluid to the rear ABS unit and bled it. I was able to bleed one rear wheel. But I can't get fluid to anything else. I get plenty of air being pushed out but no fluid. I've had my kid hit the pedal probably 50 times. Should I be looking for a problem or does it just take forever? I haven't run out of the MC during this time, so I'm not reintroducing air.

 

Yes, I can; but there is some drag. Also, I'm not a limited-slip; my truck is open.

Hrm ... when I rebuilt the back brakes, I went through about two quarts of brake fluid; then again, I was doing the FRONT brakes at the same time, and did the master cylinder.

How much fluid has run through total? And how do the brakes feel?

RwP

 

I'm on my second quart. I finally started getting fluid at all four brakes. Patience I guess...that and the kid wasn't pressing the pedal all the way. It went quicker once I had him press 5 times then hold before I cracked the bleeder. Doing it that way, I started getting fluid quicker. Now that I see I have no leaks (had to fix a couple small ones, but considering all new fittings and I re-flared all new lines myself, pretty dang good). I'm probably going to rig up a one man bleeder system back to the MC...kid has little patience when the swimming pool is beckoning.

 

I can turn them, but they don't spin on their own. There's considerable resistance. But with sure-grip turning one I'm turning both. And it's not the brakes, as I removed the tires and drums....It's just the axle assembly through the differential. Guess when the rear end blows up I'll know for sure I was very careful when reassembling the rear end, using the dial micrometer and I was in spec's per the FSM. But, being my first, I'm always second guessing.

 

On my 94 2wd stock the hubs turn freely. I just changed out my wheel cylinders and put in new springs and shoes. The instructions I had were to set the self adjuster to have the shoes as close to the drum as possible then pull the E brake and spin them to see if they rub. Then just bleed and drive. It also explained the star spin and reverse self adjust if it felt too loose after driving.

 

I guess I'm trying to determine "freely"....

With wheels off, I can turn hub with one hand, but not with one finger. With wheels on or off, as Soon as I stop turning by force, the wheel stops turning...it never free wheels.

 

If I were you I'd do the adjustment by ear. As long as the hubs are turning you could start with the adjuster backed off to the point where you are reasonably sure the shoes are not contacting the hub. Then, start adjusting the shoes outward until you begin to hear them dragging on the hub, then turn a bit more to force the shoe assembly to become concentric with the hub and ultimately to the point you can no longer turn the hub. At that point back off until you can just hear a slight drag; not too much drag or the friction could overheat the hubs. I wouldn't worry too much about getting them spot on, a little on the loose side should be OK, as backing up and stopping a few times once the truck is on the road will put them where they need to be.

You can verify that you got them close enough once the truck is running. Just put the rear on stands and let it idle. If both wheels stop turning when you step on the brake then you have the adjustment close enough that the self adjusters will work.

 

To me the definition of "freely" in the case of my rear drums amounts to me being able to turn them without having to grunt and not feeling any grinding or resistance. Mine spun easily but the drums were very tight and hard to get off. I used thread lube on all the rub spots to make that easier next time. They don't continue spinning if I give them a hard push just move as much as seems normal for the amount of effort I put in going further with the wheel on than off.
EDIT- I have an automatic trans if that matters here.