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6 inch lift and 33 or 35s

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Old 05-30-2017, 01:16 AM
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Default 6 inch lift and 33 or 35s

So wanting to lift my truck 6 inches and run 33 s or 35s. I know lift kit this size don't exist but what do I have to do to achieve that? Will probably be down the road but need to know my options and cost. Might have to have it professionally done and custom. Or is it easy to do yourself? Also need to know what I have to do to make trans strong enough for 318l La putting in to handle the strain of lift and tires.. Keeping my 3.9 trans from my dakota and gonna have it beefed up for v8. Also do I have to have org axles beefed up for 318'till I can get lift and tires for it? Will probably have to go with diff rims wanting to go with old school white spoke truck rims or the old turbine wheels like general lee style.
 
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Old 05-30-2017, 10:43 AM
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by new_red87
So wanting to lift my truck 6 inches and run 33 s or 35s. I know lift kit this size don't exist but what do I have to do to achieve that? Will probably be down the road but need to know my options and cost. Might have to have it professionally done and custom. Or is it easy to do yourself? Also need to know what I have to do to make trans strong enough for 318l La putting in to handle the strain of lift and tires.. Keeping my 3.9 trans from my dakota and gonna have it beefed up for v8. Also do I have to have org axles beefed up for 318'till I can get lift and tires for it? Will probably have to go with diff rims wanting to go with old school white spoke truck rims or the old turbine wheels like general lee style.

goodluck...

35's wont fit without severe work..

5.5 inches netted me barely enough to clear 33 X 14.5 TSL boggers .. but bare in mind the fender wheel width is ONLY 32 inches up front ..

I managed to modify torsion keys enough to gain 3.5 inches with stock suspension but taller shocks and smaller bump stops.. down travel was minimal and still maintain proper alignment .. not yours might vary .. but it was 3.5 inches over stock(original ride measurement) .. then 2 inch body lift .. still had to modify the pinch weld in inner fender among a few other little things but I do miss that truck but fuel eco was killing me at the time being 1.40/litre

now if you can fabricate and can use a welder well you can do almost anything fabricate new control arms, front diff drop brackets and so fourth ...

now beef anything up.. now this is coming from the Jeep side of me.. gearing is everything when it comes to bigger tires, that being said my old 92 with 318 magnum.. it would still light up them 33's like they were bald tires on ice with stock 3:55 gearing ...
 

Last edited by 92DakotaClub; 05-30-2017 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 05-30-2017, 10:39 PM
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Default Six or 4

Ok so if I didn't go six, 4inch lift would be more achievable? I have a mig welder but... I hate to admit it don't know how to weld my dad has used it before knows hot to weld but not best at it. If i were to take it to a shop and have it done how much would that run me? Also where would I go to have that done? Again will be down the road probably when I have the money. Anyone have pics af before and after so I can see diff over stock?
 
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by new_red87
Ok so if I didn't go six, 4inch lift would be more achievable? I have a mig welder but... I hate to admit it don't know how to weld my dad has used it before knows hot to weld but not best at it. If i were to take it to a shop and have it done how much would that run me? Also where would I go to have that done? Again will be down the road probably when I have the money. Anyone have pics af before and after so I can see diff over stock?
BEND OVER.... ALL I CAN SAY ON GETTING SOMETHING MANUFACTURED... LoL

mig welder wont cut it, TIG would be best I used a mig for a lot tho like modding torsion keys, but most suspension was still factory , rear I just did a shackle flip, gained what I needed to stay with the front 3~inches

anyway 2 inch lift is easily obtained by cranking torsion bars.. then add 2 inch body.. 32's will fit nicely with proper offset rims but ride is a lot stiffer...

33X14.5 on 5.5 , this was my clearance when turning .. dosent seem like much but even offroad it almost never touched...

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this was 235/75/15's on 2 inch body, relocated factory bumpers


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Last edited by 92DakotaClub; 05-31-2017 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 05-31-2017, 01:27 PM
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Like the look of ur red truck. That still looks high for 2 inches. I think 4 is what I wanna go with and 33s might have to cut the front fenders little bit but gonna do it right. Q is will old school rims fit the 10.5 or 12.5 or 14.5 33s? Going for turbine or white wagon spoke rims if original rims won't fit 33s.
 
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Old 05-31-2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by new_red87
Like the look of ur red truck. That still looks high for 2 inches. I think 4 is what I wanna go with and 33s might have to cut the front fenders little bit but gonna do it right. Q is will old school rims fit the 10.5 or 12.5 or 14.5 33s? Going for turbine or white wagon spoke rims if original rims won't fit 33s.

33's are gonna be tight with 4 inches... straight up .. its not so much the running its when tires flex up, especially when turning since tire moved forward and back, and to run 33X12.5 or more .. your gonna need offset rims.. with roughly atleast no less then 4 inch backspace. ... which puts tire further out and wen turning moves it further forward and backward... to cause rubbing.

now the front of the fender isn't the problem, its the rear, of it closest tot he door of the front that's the problem since its pretty much the firewall, that's how close the inner fender sits to it, so hard to get any room, remember 33's don't fit in a 32 inch space but when turning you need like a 35 inch gap in the fenders, really hard to accomplish .. I was on 99 Durango rims, 5.5 backspace with 1.5 inch spacers to give me the 4.0 I needed


not trying to crush your dreams here brother, but 33X10.5's might be a little easier since my 32X11.5's works fine with a bit of rubbing on turns with the 2 inch body lift and stock rims ..

.. the 2 inches is based ON STOCK ORIGINAL HEIGHT .. based on mopar specs for my truck, not what it was at before lifted with 20 year old sagging springs.. .. since you know over time **** starts sagging.... and I don't mean just parts on the truck .. HAHAH

as for rims.. I believe your gonna need a 6 inch wide (I did with my 32's X11's) for the 10.5 wides dependant on tire itself as it varies.. but the 12.5 you 8 inch wide minimum usually and 14's.. argh I got them on the stock Durango but the tireshop didn't like me lol
 

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Old 06-01-2017, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 92DakotaClub
33's are gonna be tight with 4 inches... straight up .. its not so much the running its when tires flex up, especially when turning since tire moved forward and back, and to run 33X12.5 or more .. your gonna need offset rims.. with roughly atleast no less then 4 inch backspace. ... which puts tire further out and wen turning moves it further forward and backward... to cause rubbing.

now the front of the fender isn't the problem, its the rear, of it closest tot he door of the front that's the problem since its pretty much the firewall, that's how close the inner fender sits to it, so hard to get any room, remember 33's don't fit in a 32 inch space but when turning you need like a 35 inch gap in the fenders, really hard to accomplish .. I was on 99 Durango rims, 5.5 backspace with 1.5 inch spacers to give me the 4.0 I needed


not trying to crush your dreams here brother, but 33X10.5's might be a little easier since my 32X11.5's works fine with a bit of rubbing on turns with the 2 inch body lift and stock rims ..

.. the 2 inches is based ON STOCK ORIGINAL HEIGHT .. based on mopar specs for my truck, not what it was at before lifted with 20 year old sagging springs.. .. since you know over time **** starts sagging.... and I don't mean just parts on the truck .. HAHAH

as for rims.. I believe your gonna need a 6 inch wide (I did with my 32's X11's) for the 10.5 wides dependant on tire itself as it varies.. but the 12.5 you 8 inch wide minimum usually and 14's.. argh I got them on the stock Durango but the tireshop didn't like me lol
So Maybe try 32 10.5 r 15?
 
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by new_red87
So Maybe try 32 10.5 r 15?

remember tho 32's will be like 31.5 .. very few actually are 32.. same as 33's will be and ive seen aslow as 32.2 inches pending.. if your lucky enough do the lift ddo everything then go to a tireshop that will alow test fitting.. if you can find one, or pickup a cheap single 32 or 33 tire and put on a spare rim and try it,

your truck shouldn't be much different since I'm giving you lift heights from the factory measured ride height , you can be more sagged then I was, maybe less that's the only variable... torsion keys would figure this out..


I can say I got 7 inches of total lift.. from what it was when I bought it ..... but in reality was only 5.5 from stock original factory ride height, but overall with tires etc..

when in reality I got 5.5 from body/suspension lift and 3 inches from tires over the stock original size tires.. (on vin sticker ) so in reality in the end got 8.5 :O




anyway before I ramble to much, you gotta decide if its gonna be used offroad or be a pavement queen.. then test what you can do and your limits, I knew when I bought it getting anything was hard and that was a few years ago, so I built and figure it out... there is a lot of info on these forums about it...
 
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Old 06-03-2017, 02:17 PM
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I live on outskirts of the city looking for both city and off road strength. A lot of my city has rough roads too. So yeah will be a daily driver but want to be able to tear it up in the mud and be a strong puller, and survive whatever I run over in the road haha
 



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