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  #11  
Old 06-30-2017, 10:11 PM
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NOOO... no lift blocks. Get your springs rearched and have them add a leaf.... you might be able to buy "lifted" leaf springs comparable in price to getting yours redone. and ave all new metal that has not been fatigued....
 
  #12  
Old 06-30-2017, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by volaredon
NOOO... no lift blocks. Get your springs rearched and have them add a leaf.... you might be able to buy "lifted" leaf springs comparable in price to getting yours redone. and ave all new metal that has not been fatigued....
1-2" lift blocks are fine. Just don't buy the cheap aluminum ones. Lift blocks are only a bad thing for full size trucks that do heavy towing.

For a Dakota, even a v8, they're just fine. Albeit, heavy duty off roading I'd probably advise against them.
 
  #13  
Old 07-01-2017, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Toby Warford
Easiest ways to lift your truck:
1. Crank the front torsion bars. Alignment is needed asap afterwards. A lot of times, you'll get the max lift that's safe for the front CV axles with stock keys. No need for new keys. Measure each side before and after and try to get them level as possible on each side. You can get 1-3" on the front this way.

2. Once you crank the front bars, get lift blocks for the back axle.

3. If that isn't enough, it's time for a body lift. Easy to do and kits on eBay are cheap. 2" body lift is all they sell, though making a 3" body lift is really easy. Don't go higher then a 3" body lift. It's advised you replace all your body bushings at the same time.

Costs
Cranking front bars - free + alignment charges
Body lift - $100 + your labor (don't go to a shop, being an old truck they'll charge an outrageous price) ((for an auto, the shift linkage needs lengthened, front bumper mounts can be redrilled and moved up, rear bumper mounts would need an extension or leave it alone))
Rear blocks - $20-50

Total lift if all the above is done: 4-6" and 33's clear pretty nice. It's not recommend to go wider then 12.5" or higher then 33" on tires with these trucks because of the weakish hubs. Though some have been running 35's with little to no problem.

I'd leave the rear hanger alone. I see no reason to do it that way. If all this isn't enough, time to learn how to weld and sas swap lol.
Just a little extra information about cranking the torsion bars, and I'm not sure if others have had this problem. I had refurbished cv axles in my truck and my inner boots would tare after about 400 miles. Im not sure how the factory ones look but on these the inner boots were different than the outer. I ended up ordering Moog 9460 boots which looks the same as the inner ones on my CV axles and had no more problems. The Moog boots have more bellows/ribs compared to the ones that were on there ( they can flex more freely)
 
  #14  
Old 07-01-2017, 02:12 PM
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When my cvs break I'm going to get lifetime autozone ones when they break take them in and they replace them. Does anyone have any idea if any other dodge leaf spring will fit my dakota.? Like ram 1500,2500 springs any other truck that fits higher I could swap on mine to get lift. Since they don't really make anything for a 1st gen dakota 4x4 it makes it hard to lift it. If nobody no of any comparable springs them I'll get the blocks...
 
  #15  
Old 07-02-2017, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Cameron707
When my cvs break I'm going to get lifetime autozone ones when they break take them in and they replace them. Does anyone have any idea if any other dodge leaf spring will fit my dakota.? Like ram 1500,2500 springs any other truck that fits higher I could swap on mine to get lift. Since they don't really make anything for a 1st gen dakota 4x4 it makes it hard to lift it. If nobody no of any comparable springs them I'll get the blocks...
Read my above lift guide. The springs aren't the issue. It's the ifs in the front. There's only do high you can go before you have to sas.
 
  #16  
Old 07-02-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Cameron707
When my cvs break I'm going to get lifetime autozone ones when they break take them in and they replace them. Does anyone have any idea if any other dodge leaf spring will fit my dakota.? Like ram 1500,2500 springs any other truck that fits higher I could swap on mine to get lift. Since they don't really make anything for a 1st gen dakota 4x4 it makes it hard to lift it. If nobody no of any comparable springs them I'll get the blocks...
Mine are also lifetime warranty. It makes a big mess when they tare. I'd say your probably better off replacing the inside boots before you even install them if they're the 2 rib design

This one has the good boot on both ends
The inside boot will more than likely rip on this style on a torsion key lift(this is like the lifetime warranty ones I bought from O'Reilly and they tore after a few hundred miles. They did warranty them but the new ones ripped again)
This one has the weaker boot on the outside and will also tare with a torsion key lift. ( There is not enough flexibility with less ribbing for the increased angle.
 




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