over drive wont hold?
You can do the key dance to check codes. I only ever got a light for the EGR. The CAT should be hotter on I forget if its the inlet or outlet when the thing is fully warm. I got a laser thermometer at home despot for $20. That will have an effect on performance too. If you do the plenum I used Hughes and they give phone support and a link to great instructions. I also put in a new double timing chain, the TSB called for tensioner they never installed when they built them and a new water pump and everything I have mentioned along with whatever Hughes recommended I replace during the job. Edit- Oh yea I hit the CAT with a rubber hammer lightly and it had an improving effect which lead me to finding out about the point and shoot temp gauge method of determining if it was bad.
Then on the days when it does run correctly explain the shift at 15 27 35 and 45, if I keep my foot in it?
Yes I looked the rust is all external, nothing inside (yet)
I'm STILL preying to the dodge gods that I don't have a plenum problem, but I might just do it anyway, gonna pull a vac test today since I did the iac, the trans still does the in and out thing starting to think its the $38 sidelong set in the trans I did find a video on it BUT the gas mileage thing may very well be the O2 sensor, I'm in the dark here since the check engine light never comes on.
one of tease days I gotta rip the dash out and see if there's a missing bulb, unless I just don't give a rats behind and do it all the old fashioned way
Yes I looked the rust is all external, nothing inside (yet)
I'm STILL preying to the dodge gods that I don't have a plenum problem, but I might just do it anyway, gonna pull a vac test today since I did the iac, the trans still does the in and out thing starting to think its the $38 sidelong set in the trans I did find a video on it BUT the gas mileage thing may very well be the O2 sensor, I'm in the dark here since the check engine light never comes on.
one of tease days I gotta rip the dash out and see if there's a missing bulb, unless I just don't give a rats behind and do it all the old fashioned way
But yes, 4th IS OD.
Try reading the factory service manual; it covers all of that.
(There's one more point that you can feel a "shift" at; it's where the torque converter locks up. But that's not a gear.)
RwP
Now back to the TV cable, can I just disconnect it? I mean since my engine light doesn't work. I know that's a bulb since the truck starts.
No, you can't. TV cable modulates shift points according to throttle position. If you just disconnect it, the trans will believe that you aren't stepping on the gas, so, if it shifts at all, it will shift WAY early. Performance, and fuel economy will suffer.
locking up torque converter makes sense, but its only 200 rpm higher than od at 50 LOL, I don't have access to a factory service manual, I'm having some trouble around here finding a Haynes manual for it cause I'm too stubborn to order one online
Now back to the TV cable, can I just disconnect it? I mean since my engine light doesn't work. I know that's a bulb since the truck starts.
Now back to the TV cable, can I just disconnect it? I mean since my engine light doesn't work. I know that's a bulb since the truck starts.
The TV is Throttle Value; it's how the transmission knows how much throttle you're giving. Sounds like it's having problems if your transmission is shifting that early when you're into it.
Feel lucky; do that for a few miles in an AOD, and you've ended up with an expensive aluminum canister of clutch fragments and crud *grins* TV cable adjustment is critical on the Ford AOD; it's required, but won't kill the transmission as quickly, on the TorqueFlite transmissions.
RwP
Once again here is the proper procedure for setting the TV Cable at both ends. https://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1ot...-throttle.html
Here is a FSM for $40 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-Mopar-D...ZY6tVN&vxp=mtr
You have to make an effort there is no easier softer way. People here take time to work out what they are offering you, show some gratitude by demonstrating understanding of that.
Here is a FSM for $40 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-Mopar-D...ZY6tVN&vxp=mtr
You have to make an effort there is no easier softer way. People here take time to work out what they are offering you, show some gratitude by demonstrating understanding of that.
Once again here is the proper procedure for setting the TV Cable at both ends. https://www.justanswer.com/dodge/1ot...-throttle.html
Here is a FSM for $40 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-Mopar-D...ZY6tVN&vxp=mtr
You have to make an effort there is no easier softer way. People here take time to work out what they are offering you, show some gratitude by demonstrating understanding of that.
Here is a FSM for $40 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-Mopar-D...ZY6tVN&vxp=mtr
You have to make an effort there is no easier softer way. People here take time to work out what they are offering you, show some gratitude by demonstrating understanding of that.
I'm an old car mechanic nothing electric
How about just ripping it all out, put a carbed 318 or 360 in it, and a 727 4x4 amd be done with it? At least then you should be able to understand something about it.
TV cables beat vacuum demods since you can't suck transmission fluid when the TV cable is off any ...
It'll shift, but it'll shift like the throttle is closed, not like you've got the throttle anywhere. Until the clutches burn out due to the shifting being way, WAY off.
And I have to ask - you never worked on a vehicle with a TV or kickdown cable or linkage? *boggles* Even my 1967 Mustang had a kickdown/TV linkage; how long has it BEEN since you've worked on a vehicle?
RwP










