Oil pressure gauge:Idle & Driving
#1
Oil pressure gauge:Idle & Driving
I have noticed while idling, my 88 Dakota 3.9 V6 is smoking some. After I drive it for about 15 to 30 minutes, I check the oil level & it is fine. I have noticed while idling, the oil pressure gauge registers kinda to the low side but while driving, the oil pressure gauge registers in the middle of the gauge.
Faulty gauge, faulty oil pressure sensor, or is this normal?
Thanks for the info!
Faulty gauge, faulty oil pressure sensor, or is this normal?
Thanks for the info!
#2
That's normal, oil pressure increases with RPM. That said, I don't think the gauge is so accurate either.
If your oil pressure light comes on, that's when you need to worry. And not worry as in, "I'll get that fixed soon" Worry as in, park it until it's fixed else prepare to grenade the motor. But sounds like that's not your situation.
Black smoke? Any other symptoms?
If your oil pressure light comes on, that's when you need to worry. And not worry as in, "I'll get that fixed soon" Worry as in, park it until it's fixed else prepare to grenade the motor. But sounds like that's not your situation.
Black smoke? Any other symptoms?
Last edited by tbugden; 08-25-2017 at 12:46 AM.
#3
The color and odor of the smoke may be significant.
However - at this age, the valve seals are almost guaranteed to be leaking (which will cause a big puff on start, and may smoke some all the time); the TBI sucks for idle management compared to MPFI/SEFI (it's actually in the FSM that a pop of the throttle WILL yield a blast of black smoke out the tail pipe due to how poorly TBI designs handle the sudden change in load); you may also be sucking some coolant; and last but not least, at this age, it may be getting some blow by so check the PCV valve and the crankcase air breather (PCV valve - here's a conundrum. If I use the Mopar valve, my oil consumption is down, but I lost a front seal within two months; with the Fram PCV valve, oil consumption is almost triple, but at least I'm not losing seals. Both are due to the excessive blowby of right at, as I type this, 370,000 miles of over half of it neglect on the part of previous owners ... YMMV natch.)
As to the gauge - as Tbugden pointed out, that's normal. And think about it; pump runs slower at idle, it won't pump as well. General rule of thumb is 10psi/1,000 RPM as a minimum, so if you're really concerned, pull the oil pressure sending unit, put a mechanical gauge on, and see what you have. Shucks, I'm considering, when I rebuild, to put a "T" in and put the mechanical gauge under the hood so I can check when working on the truck; otherwise, it's not that big a deal ("Over my panic level at idle, under the high panic at cruise? Good! Exact pressure? Who really cares??" *grins*)
RwP
However - at this age, the valve seals are almost guaranteed to be leaking (which will cause a big puff on start, and may smoke some all the time); the TBI sucks for idle management compared to MPFI/SEFI (it's actually in the FSM that a pop of the throttle WILL yield a blast of black smoke out the tail pipe due to how poorly TBI designs handle the sudden change in load); you may also be sucking some coolant; and last but not least, at this age, it may be getting some blow by so check the PCV valve and the crankcase air breather (PCV valve - here's a conundrum. If I use the Mopar valve, my oil consumption is down, but I lost a front seal within two months; with the Fram PCV valve, oil consumption is almost triple, but at least I'm not losing seals. Both are due to the excessive blowby of right at, as I type this, 370,000 miles of over half of it neglect on the part of previous owners ... YMMV natch.)
As to the gauge - as Tbugden pointed out, that's normal. And think about it; pump runs slower at idle, it won't pump as well. General rule of thumb is 10psi/1,000 RPM as a minimum, so if you're really concerned, pull the oil pressure sending unit, put a mechanical gauge on, and see what you have. Shucks, I'm considering, when I rebuild, to put a "T" in and put the mechanical gauge under the hood so I can check when working on the truck; otherwise, it's not that big a deal ("Over my panic level at idle, under the high panic at cruise? Good! Exact pressure? Who really cares??" *grins*)
RwP
Last edited by RalphP; 08-25-2017 at 06:54 AM. Reason: Added note about gauge
#4
#5
#6
Plus ... how old is your cat? If it's failed, you'll get more water vapor because it won't fire up and heat the exhaust up enough to boil the water ...
RwP
#7
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#8
Check the cat after five or so minutes; if the exit isn't hotter than the inlet, it's failed, and you're getting more water vapor out as visible vapor instead of as invisible steam due to that, until the rest of the system heats up enough to keep it all above the vapor point.
(If it's failed, it's up to you ; legally, you're supposed to replace it with an OEM unit; practically, you can bypass it with a pipe, rod out the current, or whatever you want to do - just be aware that by federal law, that's illegal. Up to the local law to prosecute, so ... )
RwP