Chris,
You don't have to open the overflow. It is actually open to air so that it will drain if it fills up. Make sure it is filled to the full mark when you get the system burped. It functions to take overflow when there is pressure above the setting on the cap and then let it go back into the system as it cools.
You should see the water flowing across the top of the rad from the top hose going toward the bottom hose side looking into the cap hole once it has fully warmed up and the thermostat opens.

 

O ANYONE WANT TO BUY A 1993 DODGE DAKOTA CHEAP???

So working on this has been a learning experience. Yesterday I learned after the hood dropped on me the second time that working outside in a wind storm is probably not a good idea. Just of 50 MPH and it was about 35 MPH steady. So I figured that today I would knock it out, thought it would take me about 30-45 minutes. 2 minutes in I broke a socket, 5 minutes in I have snapped one of the bolts that hold the housing about the thermostat. It has now gone beyond my skill set and tools.



Any thoughts on what to do? A shop or a mobile mechanic? TNT or Carzilla?

 

OK take a break. Go get some PB blaster or similar oil for loosening nuts and bolts. Spray both the broken bolt and the one that is still in the thermostat housing and let it soak for a day or so. If you can't wait a day wait a few hours.
The solution I see if if you can get the other side off you can remove the broken bolt as it will be sticking up some from the intake once you remove the housing. Do you have the alternator removed and AC moved over? Doing that will give you a lot more room. Get painters tape and mark each bolt for where it came from maybe take pics. You can unbolt the Alternator simply enough and the AC mount can be taken off and leaving the hoses intact just lift it to lay it off to the passenger side. The you'll have access and you will probably be able to remove the broken bolt with vice grips. IDK what the sensor set up is on yours but there might be one or two sensors by the thermostat housing that will leak coolant because you will probably have to remove them to get the broken bolt out. Best to lower the coolant level to below that height before removing them. You can get new bolts at the dealer or auto parts store.
Heck even if you break the heads off both side the housing will come off and you should be able to grip the broken stubs to remove them.

 

I am inside, shoes off and fixing some chili dogs.

The bolt that broke was the second one, so the housing is off or at least loose, I have it covering the thermostat area right now. I have taken the alternator out, moved the air filter housing to get access. The bolt broke off even with the block so there is nothing to grab.

Here are some pictures of the area

 

Oh that sucks..... When I broke one of those bolts on my van, it turned out to be easiest just to replace the intake......

 

I would have to replace the whole engine. Hmmmm...no money for that, but it would be nice.

I was told a tap and die and easy out is what I need. I am heading to O'Rielly's to get a new bolt and then to Harbor Freight for a tap and die set.

 

Get some left handed drill bits. It might grab it and pull it out as it chews up the old bolt. Also soak it with PB blaster or whatever stuff you have. Take it easy and go slow.

 

This.

If you DO have to pull the intake, that'd be a perfect time to do the plenum gasket, a common failure point in Magnum motors.

RwP

 

Okay, I went out and got some new bolts and a broken screw extractor set, that I was told was designed for bolts. When I got home, I sprayed the area with WD-40, I have let it soak for the past 75 minutes.

Getting ready to head out and start the process.

Several of you have mentioned left hand drill bits, where do I get those if I have to go that route, the extractors that O'Rielly's sold also mentioned them.

 

I will not be doing the replacement of the intake, that would be a professional. Not to sound stupid but what is the intake? Is that the same and the manifold?