I had teh same issue when I bought mine I installed a new pump only to have the same issue. Turns out I installed it like the previous pump with the float arm pointing to the pass side. It has to point to the front of the truck to work. Also there is a couple things in teh FAQ about cleaning the sending unit contacts and making sure they are contacting properly. The original pump I broke was fine and I broke the rollover valve installing it on the new pump. I now have a used pump in there so that I have a proper rollover valve and I used the method on the FAQ page to install the dorman rollover valve on the pump I took out.

 

I put a Sure Grip into my 96 last year, had the sure grip laying around, brand new from an old project..... actually have a 2nd one, (NO it is not going anywhere, have another truck that needs one) I paid less for both of them than you say Jegs wants for one now a days... Check Ebay, or Randy's Ring and Pinion, or West Coast Differentials, have bought differential parts from all of the above before, also National Drivetrain. I paid less for my 2 Traklok diffs (both brand new) and 2 bearing/rebuild kits than Jegs wants for 1 new limited slip....
One thing I never understood... they give you the pinion and carrier bearings/races but I have yet to be able to buy a rear end kit that also includes the axle bearings and seals, always have to wind up getting those extra.

Check around.... you might luck out into a rear end with a sure grip already in it for less than buying the parts and installing them even if you don't have to pay to have it done...… used to be a few junkyards along the frontage roads along 94 from the IL state line to Milwaukee.... and they were reasonable.

don't worry about the blue book, what the truck is "worth".... if you like it youre not likely to sell it anyways..... if youre like me you don't have money for monthly payments on a new one either, right?

 

I don't know; Ebay has been somewhat lean on trakloks and suregrips for a 8.25" over the past year.

Randy's is more like $600 (!!!!) for a TrakLoc (DS 73101)

West Coast is about Randy's price.

I'd LOVE to find a good SureGrip for a 8.25" to go into the Dakota; right now, however, I can't justify $400 for a new one.

RwP

 

So after putting in the new sender/pump, and the fuel gauge still not working, is there ANYTHING else to check? I really don't see how I could possibly drop the tank without breaking things on the top of the tank, after doing this last time by removing the bed, and honestly I never want to do that again.

Could it be possibly anything else? At all?

 

Could be the cluster itself. I got a spare you could have with all gauges confirmed working but then it would read 180k miles lol

 

The bed moves easier the second time.

See which two wires at the tank connector are for the gauge. Put a jumper across them, and see if the gauge moves. (verify you are getting power on one of the pins first..... just to eliminate that as the problem.)

 

Yeah, it's getting the bed off the truck that's the issue.

 

Could cut the wires where they go down the frame rail and test, or better buy one if those inline probe yesterday thingies (it's on my short list of tools to acquire). Actually maybe you can do the test at the cluster itself? In that way you can test the gauge and if it's good you know the problem is in the wiring or in the pump sending unit/float.like you I'd want to isolate the problem before pulling the bed again.

 

I do believe the (1995) FSM is still available for download in the FAQ, but here is the section relevant for you just for convenience and future proofing this thread. Note the first few steps is to test the sending unit but you can just skip that of course lol.

The diagnosis found here addresses an inoperative
gauge condition. If the problem being diagnosed is related
to gauge accuracy, be certain to confirm that
problem is with gauge and not with fuel tank. Inspect
fuel tank for signs of damage or distortion that
could affect sending unit performance before you proceed
with gauge diagnosis. Refer to Group 14 - Fuel
System for more information.

(1) Turn ignition switch to ON. Disconnect fuel
gauge sending unit connector. Connector is located on
top of the fuel tank. The gauge needle should move
to low end of gauge scale. If OK, go to next step. If
not OK, go to step 4.
(2) Connect a jumper wire between sending unit
ground cavity and fuel sensor input cavity in the
body half of the fuel gauge sending unit connector
(Fig. 3). The gauge needle should move to high end of
gauge scale. If OK, refer to Group 14 - Fuel System
for procedure to replace sending unit. If not OK, remove
jumper wire and go to next step.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Check for continuity between sending
unit ground cavity in the body half of fuel gauge
sending unit connector and a good ground. There
should be continuity. If OK, go to next step. If not
OK, repair circuit to ground as required.
(4) Remove instrument cluster bezel and cluster
assembly. Disconnect instrument cluster connector 1
(gray connector on right side of cluster).
(5) Probe cavity D of cluster connector 1. Check for
continuity to a good ground. There should be no continuity.
If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(6) Still probing cavity D of cluster connector 1,
check for continuity to fuel sensor input cavity of
sending unit body half connector. There should be
continuity. If OK, replace gauge. If not OK, repair
open circuit as required.

 

Thanks, that is AWESOME info! I owe you a beer! WIll try to get to this this week