So I have had the project Dakota out on the road for some test driving, which hasn't gone the way that I had hoped, but that will be saved for another post.

What I have noticed though is the fan clutch on this is horrible, it roars all the time! Years ago I owned a 94 B250 with 5.2L and the fan clutch was awesome, it would spin up a few seconds but then drop off dramatically because it just wasn't needed, the van wasn't up to temp at all. Also this van never overheated and I had 200k+ great miles with that thing.

Now the Dakota...the clutch fan does not disengage no matter what temperature the engine is, it just roars along all the damn time, and as you know in Iowa right now there's no need to run the cooling fan, it's 30 outside and with a light spritzing of snow coming down ATM.

At any rate, what's to be done with this thing and is it bad or just the way it will be with it? Do I need to abandon the clutched fan for electric if I want to get rid of the noisy POS?

Commentary would be welcome!

Thanks
Steve A

 

Depending on your future plans and your money situation, you may choose to a) Cheapest - let it roar. b) Middle - replace the clutch with a new one. c) Next expensive - buy a cheap *** electric fan, zip tie it to the radiator, and use a toggle switch to turn it on while doing your best to not forget it. (If it's cheaper than the clutch fan, don't even bother.) d) Beef up the electrical (bigger battery cables, bigger charge cable from the alternator, bigger alternator), pick up a stand alone electric fan controller (I like the PWM ones so I don't get a roaring fan unless I need one; do notice I'm still running clutch, because I'm in the first part of this!), and pick up the biggest baddest highest CFM fan(s) you can fit into the truck, letting the controller handle the fans.

For a trip this weekend, you may choose to just listen to her roar. Past that, it's up to you.

I'm partial to converting to electric, but do notice, I'm still in the "Bigger badder most badass cables" phase

RwP

 

My 93 has a 3 inch body lift which means the stock fan will not work. So it has a set of dual 10 inch fans ran through a relay and a flip switch in the cab. Right now they're wired so both fans run when the switch is on and those 2 little fans actually overcool the coolant. 1 would be enough but I out two for when I ha e to run the AC. Switch to electric, they tend to work better, plus you get rid of the parasitic ho drain caused by stick style fans. Best way to go is to get the height and width measurements of your rad and do some searching on eBay for a set of fans that will fit. You may have to bend up some 1/16 or 1/8 aluminum pieces to mount them but electric is the way to go

 

Nope not normal. My engine is quiet...as much as an old V8 with 180k on it can be expected to be quiet, just a bit of timing chain slap at idle and only that sweet V8 exhaust note under load. Sounds like your clutch is stuck and the roaring is a traditional symptom of it.

 

Also, I've seen someone Dyno a 5.2 with the stock fan, then switch to electric fans, underdrive pulleys, a cold air kit and a y pipe back dual exhaust and gaine 30hp and 42ft lbs

 

Thanks guys, not looking for a performance upgrade, after all it's just a 3.9, but I can't live with that behavior. I remember how nice it was when the van clutch would disengage and this is anything but.

I have been looking and I think a decent electrical solution could be found on a 94/95 range Grand Caravan. The dimensions of the radiator are close and so the shroud with single big electric fan should work pretty well. The later 96+ series has a double fan, which I like, but the shroud is outside the dimensions of the Dak radiator on width so I'll let that one pass. I will probably get a simple probe controller, I think RA sells one like that with a probe you just feed through the radiator grille.

Will be nice to get this under control fast. Also, the single fan with the shroud isn't all that expensive even new via RA but I might have a look see at the JY before anyway. I need to see if I can find a replacement rear diff cover that isn't all corroded.

Steve

 

I'd recommend at least a fan controller, yep. I'm partial to one in the water flow ... you can buy lower radiator hose adapters for the sensor (here's just one example - be SURE to measure the hose first, to order the right size! https://smile.amazon.com/Upgr8-Alumi.../dp/B00FY2LWII )

I'd opt for a new fan; but one that might work (and is used by a LOT of people!) as long as you can stand the inrush and drive current is the old traditional Mark VIII single speed fan. A genuine Motorcraft single speed Mark VIII fan can inrush over 75A(!!!) so ...

My eyes are on a controller used by a lot of TBird owners, the Auto Cool Guy controllers ( http://www.autocoolguy.com/ ). Actually two; I plan to convert the Cougar over to electric this next year also.

RwP

 

Thanks for the links Ralph, I will keep that in mind. It would be nicer to have good water temp sensing to control the fan. Not sure I'm up for the Mk VIII fan though, that's a lot of current draw!

Steve

 

It can be; but that's the inrush if you use a simple relay. PWM tames that quite a bit.

PWM also means you get a bit of fan if it's just warmish, and "OMG SHE'S TAXIING TO TAKE OFF!" if it's really warm

But PWM also sets you back a bit more ... Le sigh.

(The TBird/Cougar 2 speed might be another choice, but it's a bit funny. You run the low speed winding to start it, and if you need more, you switch to the high speed winding. Starting out on high can cause tremendous inrush currents; running both can burn the motor out. It's a bit tricky.)

RwP

 

I remember a TSB about Dodge using a heavy duty fan clutch on those.
and like your driveline deal.... were not talking much money or anything very hard to replace. Just replace it (it aint new any more, we know that) and go with the "heavy duty" one. I don't think you need the "Severe duty version" for that, I put one on a (ugh) Suburban with a 6.0 and you want to talk about ROAR! Right after changing it when I 1st fired it up I couldn't believe all the dust and dirt that went flying, being sucked from the radiator fins..... but that was a 3/4 ton 4wd that used all of its people hauling capacity and pulled a heavy equip trailer too and thru the Mountains of the Rockies too....
(IL DNR Fire brigade, who travels all over helping with these wildfires that have become so popular, these last few years)
On any application I would go better than "entry level" for sure. They do make a huge difference in the warm season! some are thermal activated some are centrifugal-only (these are the cheaper ones)
The thermal versions have a coil spring on the front of them and activate/ deactivate partly on surrounding temp, partly on centrifugal force.