I'm trying to replace ball joints on my 1992 Dodge Dakota rear wheel drive. I have the lower ball joint out, but upper ball joint is threaded.
Some WWW searches say to use special socket - 4-point Miller part #C3561. Prices start at $55 or so for a used one up to $75 or so for new.
Can anyone verify that this is the right size socket for my needs, or an alternative? I'd hate to spend that much money and get the wrong thing.
I have already ordered upper and lower Moog ball joints.

 

Put a pipe wrench on it.

 

Because of the upward turn of the control arm around the ball joint it's impossible to get a grip with a pipe wrench. I also have a huge crescent wrench but it also won't fit down in there deep enough for a secure grip (that won't slip off when you apply pressure to it). I'm pretty sure a specialized socket is the only way to go, but I was hoping for verification on the part number I supplied before I spend the $$$.

 

Here is a used snap on version. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Too...Xjn:rk:13:pf:0
That is the one I purchased......
Where are you located?


Edit to add, still a pain to get out. I used this along with some heat.

 

Back when I tried to pull mine, it ended up I took the UCA to a shop, and they had two techs holding onto the 1150LB/FT torque wrench to bust it free ...

Didn't have that trouble getting it back together though.

I THINK it was 25 year old ball joints in my 1988, though ...

In any case, this is the tool I used ..
I also used an impact 1/2-3/4 adapter; the impact wrench at the shop was a 3/4 drive wrench.

DON'T use the Hazard Fraught (Harbor Freight) adapter; those suckers will twist right off!

So a good quality adapter may run you another $15 or so.

Still cheaper than you saw the Miller for.

Keep it for the next set of ball joints; sell it in the for-sale area; or see if the local big box store has it in the Loan-A-Tool program.

They do list the OEM tool at AutoZone for about $30.

RwP

 

Thanks 03 ragttop and RalphP, I just ordered a socket for $38 off eBay.
I saw your replies when I went to email to see verification of my purchase =:^( ... More expensive than the ones y'all sent me but considering what a shop would charge me to replace them it's still cheap.
Anyway...
Free shipping but ETA is Feb 1, hopefully it will be here before that...

 

When I did mine on my 4x4 I removed the control arm and put the ball joint flats in a vice and used a giant bar to loosen it by rotating the control arm itself. But it sounds like the 4x2 clearances might be a little tight for that from what you say.

 

have had those ball joint sockets for years, don't use them as often as I used to. there were 3 different sizes, A bodys (Valiants etc) took the smallest one, most cars took the middle size one, trucks and the big boats (Chrysler Newports, New Yorkers etc) took the biggest version. I have the middle size one and the biggest one.

 

The ball sockets arrived Saturday, waiting on the socket. The upper ball joint is 2 1/8 inches across the flats, which is the size of the socket I ordered so I should be OK. I knew there were two socket sizes, wasn't aware of the smallest one...

 

Don't you love having to buy a tool in order to get something apart and the tool cost's more than the part. LOL! At least you will have it for future ball joint issues, if you buy it. I look at tools as an investment.