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led light conversion

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Old 03-23-2019, 06:28 PM
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Default led light conversion

anybody tell me what type socket was used on a 96 Dakota 4x4 3.9l automatic.. whether standard socket or ck type sockets for the 3157 bulbs.. have got both.. ck type keeps blowing running light fuse #8[yellow] in fuse box.. regular socket 3157 just not working right either.. turn left turn signal on.. right lights up.. and tag lights flash.. what the heck?!?! help!!!
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 08:38 PM
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Sounds like you've got a problem.

An incandescent 3157 also doesn't work? Don't blame the LEDs until you get that to working.

Helps that the FSM with the wiring diagrams is downloadable from the FAQs here ... I'd grab that, and work my way forward.

But before you do that ... do you have a trailer light connector kit on it? If so, remove that (hint: Most are pass through kind; unplug it, plug the two ends that were plugged into it into each other) and make sure that's not a problem.

RwP
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:32 PM
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Default led light conversion

got them working.. yes 3157 regular bulbs work fine.. I fingered it out..lol.. led's bulbs wouldn't work because of turn signal flasher when plugged led 3157's in had tag lights flashing... resistance..difference in .. had to replace with electronic one.. WE JAMMIN NOW.. THANX ALL!!
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:35 PM
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and those led bulbs don't mix well with incandescent bulbs either... got to turn signal/running lights up front.. replaced with the led 3157.. turn signals inside dash lite up... geesh!!! lol.. all because of those incandescent t-10 side marker light bulbs that I have to dang near take headlight assembly out to get to.. another day!!!
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:38 PM
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The 68 javelin [old glory-tag] sst should be finished by end of year...varooom...varooom... Car shows here we come!!
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by javelin View Post
and those led bulbs don't mix well with incandescent bulbs either... got to turn signal/running lights up front.. replaced with the led 3157.. turn signals inside dash lite up... geesh!!! lol.. all because of those incandescent t-10 side marker light bulbs that I have to dang near take headlight assembly out to get to.. another day!!!
Yah, that's why I still run incandescents in the front of my 1988 (BA15D base, 1157, but still)

Rear are LED.

I'm VERY happy with how bright my new SuperBrightLED lights are; noticably brighter than the Zevo lights were.

RwP
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:42 PM
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Replaceing all front lenses tomorrow morning.. New headlight lenses and turn signal/side marker.. Should look good with my new led headlights and running/turn/brake lights [led also]..know the chrome lenses with led's in back are sharp!! And finally found a brand new [never used] chrome brush guard for this 96 [hens teeth to find]... In tavares fla.. A steal too.. $125
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:45 PM
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And those 3157 plugs are standard plug in's... Not ..repeat ..not "ck" type plug ins!!! So anybody has that question this thread will answer for them
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 10:35 PM
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You ARE aware that most of the LED bulbs for headlights suck planetary masses through stir sticks when it comes to putting light where it needs to be for you to see while driving, right?

See, for instance,
.

And watch how bad the "good" patterns are.

RwP
 
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Old 03-23-2019, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by javelin View Post
and those led bulbs don't mix well with incandescent bulbs either... got to turn signal/running lights up front.. replaced with the led 3157.. turn signals inside dash lite up... geesh!!! lol.. all because of those incandescent t-10 side marker light bulbs that I have to dang near take headlight assembly out to get to.. another day!!!
ACTUALLY, the problem is how the wig-wag lights work.

You can probably give up those T10 (#168 or #194) bulbs; it's just about impossible to get LEDs working there due to the design of the wiring.

I refer you to the wiring diagrams in the FSM.

How they work is this way:

IF your headlights/parking lights are off, AND you turn on a turn signal or the 4-ways, the voltage appears on the turn signal side; it carries through the bulb; and the circuit is completed through the parking light side.

IF you have the parking lights on (and they're on with the headlights!), AND there's no turn signal action, 12V appears on the PARKING light side; circuit is completed to ground through the TURN signal filament.

IF, however, you have the parking lights on AND the turn signal is ON AND should be lit (is in the "ON" portion of the flash), then both sides are 12V, and the bulb goes out.

With LEDs, you get the problem that a) LEDs are polarized; b) there may not be enough current through the parking light circuit to complete for the side light; c) there may not be enough current through the TURN signal side; d) even if there's enough current, it may cause the PARKING lights (and even the dash lights inside!) to blink with the turn signals due to the circuit feed.

A resistor across both the parking and the turn signal side to ground (two resistors on one side; one on turn signal on the other side) may help that some. I don't know; as I mentioned, I did incandescents up front due to that design. (And LEDs in the back; I LOVE me some instantaneous brake-light-on action back there. *grins* )

RwP
 

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