Will do Ralph. I inspected it and pulled on the crimped terminals to be sure they weren't loose but maybe I'll just put new terminals on. Maybe even solder them just to be sure.

HeyYou, what is a case ground?

 

I'm just running the regulator ground to a grounding bolt on the alternator. Maybe I'll try to find a different point or just make a new one like you suggest. Good idea. I'll try that tomorrow.

I fix my vehicles because I'm cheap and don't trust mechanics. For no other reason. Truthfully, I hate working on cars and you will never see me collecting manuals for a hobby. But God bless those who do!

 

A ground path for the case of the voltage regulator. Usually, it just grounds through one of its mounting screws/bolts. I like to run a separate wire, to a known good ground, just for giggles. (and insurance... makes REAL sure you have a good ground, and don't simply smoke the regulator.)

 

That’s how I have it set up now. The regulator has three screws attaching it to the fender wall. I have a ground wire running from one of the mounting screws to a grounding stud on the alternator. Maybe that’s a crappy ground. Doesn’t cost anything to try a different ground.

 

What are you using for the alternator's grounding wire?

That previous ground was for the alternator output.

Maybe that's why you're getting the bouncing needles, the alternator's not actually grounded to the frame and/or block properly?

RwP

 

I’m using a grounding wire that came with the regulator kit. It’s nothing more than a 14ga wire with ring terminals crimped on the ends. I have one end trapped under a regulator mounting screw and the other end on an alternator bolt. The alternator itself is grounded to a factory grounding bolt on the engine block. There are two bolts on the alt that were used to mount the ground cable and field terminals. That’s that molded black thingy in the picture I posted yesterday.

 

OK, I checked the resistance on some ground points. I'm getting zero resistance on the factory grounding bolt on the engine block. That's the ground point my alternator is connected to. I also checked both grounding bolts on the alternator. Again, zero resistance. I saw a grounding point near my PCM on the fender wall with two ground wires on it. I assume one was for the PCM. The other I don't know. I was getting zero resistance on that point as well. So I attached my regulator ground to that point. No go. My dash gauge still has the heebie jeebies.

I can't think of anything else. You guys?? Next step is to call Alternatorman and ask him what's up with his regulator.

 

Is the wiring from the PCM still hooked to the alternator as well??

 

No. Those got cut when I installed the regulator kit. They are just sitting there unattached for the moment. I got a FRM with the regulator kit and I attached the old wires to it. The purpose was to kill the CHECK ENGINE light. Didn't work so I currently have them unattached. I was told it doesn't kill the CHECK ENGINE light in 10 - 20% of the cases. Appears I fell in that category. Bring it on!

Took a ride to Chapel Hill this morning. I get on the Interstate humming along at 70 mph and that voltage gauge needle was steady as a rock. It was even steady at idle (while in gear) but that range between about 1000 - 1600 rpms is when it was shaking. Other times it shakes all the time. But it does like a load put on it. Tends to steady out under loads.

 

Could there be some kind of problem on the power feed side? He has a 12 gauge power feed coming out of his regulator. It was too short to reach my interior fuse box so I added a couple feet (soldering the splice) of 12 gauge wire to make it thru the firewall (thru a grommet). It is attached to an Add-a-Fuse (aka, piggyback) which I plugged into my cigar lighter (15 amp fuse for the lighter). I added a 10 amp fuse for the regulator. I have since switched circuits and moved it to the radio circuit. Had no impact. I will say, that piggyback looks to be a 14 gauge wire vs the 12 gauge feed coming from the regulator.