Does anyone know off hand what size flare nuts (i.e., 1/8 NPT or 3/8 fine or whatever) are used on the early 1st gens?

I have no back brakes; I'm thinking the load sensitive proportioning valve is hung and blocked.

I'd like to HAVE back brakes But that's a part made of unobtainium.

So my current thinking is to pull the LSPV and put a manual adjustable valve in there to keep the back brakes from locking up too quickly.

But in order to keep the truck rolling, I need all my fittings to hand.

(If anyone remembers the plug size for the run from the LSPV to the front metering block - where you can plug the front metering block with the removal of the LSPV - I'd like that also.)

I suppose, push come to shove, I could always do an after market metering block /proportioning valve and run a new run to the back axle; I'd like to avoid that until after I get the Cougar running again.

RwP

 

Ralph, on my 87 the lines are all 3/16 with a standard double flare fitting. The nuts going to the proportioning valve have larger threads. I purchased a kit with 25 ft of line, and assortment of nuts from ebay and made my own. Tried to link the kit, but for some reason, cannot get it to work.

 

3/16 line good.

I thought as much.

So an assortment of fittings is the best way to go, it seems.

I've got a few items in my wish lists on Amazon; I'll probably just order from there and spend a long weekend redoing all the lines.

Shucks, might just do an aftermarket meter block/proportioning valve up front and replace the factory one ...

Aftermarket is cheap nowadays (WELL under $100 for metering block / prop. valve combos.)

RwP

 

you wont need that load sensing valve. newer Dakotas had the same brakes as yours (puny 9" drum) without that valve. Just run your body line that comes down the frame, directly to the rubber hose connection at the frame above the rear end, bleed and go..... also check your rear wheel cylinders to make sure they aint seized up, had that on a couple cars over the years, most notably my 76 Charger (same car as a Cordoba that year))

 

Mine is actually a 10" drum set; but yah, I know. Hence my desire to replace it all.

Wheel cylinders were new back in 2017, so I doubt they're BOTH seized.

But I do have to get someone over to help me verify it's the LSPV and not the metering block or something else. (Cheap and easy way - put a 1x4 under the brake pedal so they can't go to the floor; have assistant pump up brakes; crack flare nut loose and see if any fluid shoots or oozes out starting at the axle. Tighten back up before assistant lifts foot. Use 1x4 to keep from blowing seals in the master cylinder.)

RwP

 

Ralph,

I had a problem getting my 87 to bleed.
Talked to a old mechanic, who was retired, and this is what he told me to try.

Have someone in the truck to operate the brake pedal, while you open bleeders.
1. open one of the rear bleeders.
2. slowly push the pedal down.
3. close bleeder
4 let brake pedal come back up.
5. repeat several times.
It worked!!

I dont know if its because there is a belly in the line somewhere that holds air, and this method slowly pushes it to the rear or what, but again, it worked.
After getting the air out, its fine now.

BTW, I had tried the standard way, ie: pump up the pedal, crack bleeder, close, pump up again. It would not work....
Even used one of the vacuum bleeders you hook up to a air hose.
All were getting fluid out, but still left air in there.

Just a suggestion.

 

my 89 and 90 had that silly valve. My 92, my 93, my 94 and my 96 didn't come with one. all Dakotas. we used to bypass those weight sensing valves on Tauruses and Chevy trucks all the time. no adverse effects. No metering valve needed.

 

Well, it bleeds fine with a vacuum bleeder; but I get ZERO braking action.

Put it up on jack stands, and put the car in drive. Tires WHIZZZZ around; even with full brake.

I'm going to check and make sure it's not blocked elsewhere (cheat: 1x4 under pedal so it won't bottom on the floorpan, have a friend pump it up, and crack a flare nut, resealing it before my friend lifts his/her foot.)

My current plan is a new line from the metering block back to by the axle for now; cheaper, and should work.

I keep the truck loaded, so it won't be a problem on "light load" stops.

RwP

 

If your having trouble getting help, have you considered the speed bleeders? I know a few people who auto cross and they work great.

 

Speed bleeders don't help cracking open a line to find where it's blocked

I have a vacuum bleeder for one-man bleeding; works pretty darn good.

(Hazard Fraught sells one such, https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html . I bought mine off Amazon, but as far as I can tell, it's the exact same unit.)

RwP