Well, it's been five years - and my new core is seeping after only 5 years.

I can tell it is; as soon as the temp gauge bumps up ANY the windshield fogs up in 60F weather.

So I'm rebuilding a HVAC box to swap into the Dakota.

Here's some of the rebuild pictures, in series.


Most of the mud dauber nests were not pictured; I removed close to 10 pounds of mud (!!!) from this unit.

This is where the temp flapper valve connects, to show which way it goes.

This vacuum solenoid is connected with the hoses turned this way. IIRC, it does defrost/everything else.

This is the fresh/recirc valve and flapper. Don't worry, the flapper got Rust Rid'ded and then painted, then new foam put on.

This is the temp flapper, so I could see how to put it back in.

The vacuum hoses were taped to a wire T under there.

Of course, it didn't go as smoothly getting this HVAC box out of the 1991 in the boneyard as I could wish.

Since the seat was rusted out and wouldn't move, and the yard was closing, I forced it up and around. BTW - If you can't put the seat all the way back, take it out to work on the HVAC box.


Oops.

The stud is probably still in the floorboard in the boneyard.


The head of my fix - 1/4-20 screw, 1.5" long, with a fender washer on it.

Fender washer, four regular flat washers, and a nut, locktite on the nut.

It clears the evaporator with plenty of space, now that I bent that tube down a bit.

And even more.


I recycled the gaskets off the old evaporator; I can't find anyone who supplies the gaskets. They're compressed foam rubber.

The new heater core came with gasketting, save for that big one. Which in this pic is on the wrong side of the housing.

Oops. I put it on the correct side, but didn't retake the picture. This ... is on the wrong side of the housing.

This is the cooling vent on the VDO motor I used. It needs air, so it ends up pointing downwards.

This "universal" motor spins either CW or CCW; you wire it up the right way. Which is ... black positive for our trucks.

It grouses me some to wire up a black to a green, and a black to an orange, but it's how it blows the right way.

In the later HVAC boxes (this came out of a 1991), the power leads are grommetted into the box. In an older box (like my 1988's original), the motor is exposed on the back, with a rubber tube that goes from the vent on the motor to the housing.

After we pull the wiring through. It's got that lump to clear the connector.

This is just about perfect with the new blower wheel. It's not hitting the cover, but it's close enough that there's not much if any air that escapes above the fan.

After that shot, I scribed it with a sharp knife, then used Loktite Blue on the set screw (this one is 3MM hex).

The tab broke due to age; I zip tied it back on to keep it from walking free after assembly.

That's all for now.

I'll get some of removing the old box and installing the new box for you in a few days.

RwP

 

Didn't get anymore pics; we're forecast to have a low of 27F tomorrow, 24F Wednesday, and I NEEDED that heater working.

So I did it after dark.

Note to self: Even with the LED lamps, leave the door open long enough and the 5A fuse will melt. Probably due to the head unit being on that same circuit.

RwP

 

Would like to see bofore and after of the fresh/recirc flapper. My heat was bad last winter and although it feels better this winter I'm not sure that's true. I'd like to see what the door should look like.

Thanks
Steve

 

It's supposed to be covered in foam both sides.

I used some camper top sealing foam, and put strips on both sides. After wire wheeling the rest of the old foam and loose rust off.

Ditto for the other flapper doors.

And new weatherstrip between the body and the top.

RwP

 

Well, FML.

Heater core is solid, unit works GREAT.

And now I have a small puddle under the front of the motor ...

Fixed one leak, and another spot started leaking.

So I have a new Murray water pump in the truck (cab) to put on over Thanksgiving weekend.

And ... I ordered some new heater hose. Was pricing out the black hose (could get Gates logo'ed for about 75 cents/foot), and found ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-Silicon...m/254269747549

Ordered 8 foot, should be enough.

Why, yes, I do like a bit of the bling bling at times, why do you ask?

Also ordered some 360* hose clamps, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZYG4PDI/ .

Should be a treat when I'm done.

Now to pick up some more Seafoam paint to paint the water pump ...

(DID pick up a new tube of thread sealer to seal the threads of the bolts with. Also should have the replacement A.I.R. pump soonest.)

RwP

 

Hey Ralph,
Do you have the tool to tighten those clamps? I have seen them before, but have never used them. Looks like a clean, neat, way to hook up the hoses.
FWIW I have been thinking about buying one of the Clamptite tools that seem to be on most of the car shows now a days...... But Im concerned there are areas where you dont have enough room to make it work..
Now, if we could just find the upper and lower hose in silcone....

 

Yes, I do; I ordered an assortment off Amazon that came with the tool, but the largest clamp in the assortment barely fits on those hoses.

So I also ordered the next larger size, which DOES slip on the hose and will do the job.

Now to replace the screw drive hose clamps on the transmission cooler lines (which leak a bit), and the fuel line (outer cracking at the TBI (!!!!) ) and I'll be having fun this weekend.

(For values of "fun" that do not approximate related to the normal English meanings, anyway.)

RwP

 

I feel sure all of that is fun, compared to that hvac box...... Hope you have a blessed thanksgiving!!

 

I'm cheating a bit ... while redoing the fuel lines, I'll be adding this in:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPZ4SW/

Being TBI, my fuel pressure is supposed to be 14.5psi; this should be adequate to visualize the actual pressure.

RwP