96 Dakota V6 Code 11
So, my truck had an intermittent stalling problem - mostly while idling in drive at stop signs/lights or right after idling and a couple of times while driving highway speeds. After stalling at stops, the engine would fire back up immediately or after a minute or two. After stalling at highway speeds (true stall - tach at 0), it would generally fire back up on its own before I even had a chance to pull over and stop completely. No GEN or Check Engine light.
I replaced the fuel pump about a month ago after testing showed it was pulling too much power. Did not fix stalling problem. Finally, engine light came on with codes for misfires on several cylinders. Replaced plugs, wires, and cap&rotor after inspection showed severe wear on cap and metal plate on rotor was bent. Reset codes. Codes did not come back, but stalling got worse - no GEN or Check Engine lights.
Now, truck won't start at all. It will crank, but not fire up. I checked for "hidden" codes using on-off-on-off-on method and got Code 11, but no other codes (other than the normal 12 & 55). I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and ignition coil (on the off chance that it wasn't sparking at the correct voltage). Battery was disconnected and cleared code - confirmed by same method as above. Tried firing the truck up and still won't start. Code 11 is back! Arg!
I tried switching relays to no avail. Tested all fuses. Wiring and harnesses tight and look to be in good repair. No discernable vacuum leaks. Fuel pump can be heard when key is turned to on and the tank is just over a quarter full. All I can think of now is the crankshaft itself or the computer module. Does anyone have any other ideas or experience with this before I shell out that kind of money? Please help!
I replaced the fuel pump about a month ago after testing showed it was pulling too much power. Did not fix stalling problem. Finally, engine light came on with codes for misfires on several cylinders. Replaced plugs, wires, and cap&rotor after inspection showed severe wear on cap and metal plate on rotor was bent. Reset codes. Codes did not come back, but stalling got worse - no GEN or Check Engine lights.
Now, truck won't start at all. It will crank, but not fire up. I checked for "hidden" codes using on-off-on-off-on method and got Code 11, but no other codes (other than the normal 12 & 55). I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and ignition coil (on the off chance that it wasn't sparking at the correct voltage). Battery was disconnected and cleared code - confirmed by same method as above. Tried firing the truck up and still won't start. Code 11 is back! Arg!
I tried switching relays to no avail. Tested all fuses. Wiring and harnesses tight and look to be in good repair. No discernable vacuum leaks. Fuel pump can be heard when key is turned to on and the tank is just over a quarter full. All I can think of now is the crankshaft itself or the computer module. Does anyone have any other ideas or experience with this before I shell out that kind of money? Please help!
Last edited by Michelle Ronquillo; Dec 10, 2019 at 02:27 AM.
Here http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html Save the link
Your code indicates the camshaft or crankshaft is dead or acting up.
Since you changed the plugs cap and rotor and it doesn't start its probably the camshaft sensor which it a little silicon circuit board looking plate inside the distributor cap under the rotor. That is what that wire coming out the base is for. There is a connector in that wire. Well now you know you have a new Crank Sensor anyway
Your code indicates the camshaft or crankshaft is dead or acting up.
Since you changed the plugs cap and rotor and it doesn't start its probably the camshaft sensor which it a little silicon circuit board looking plate inside the distributor cap under the rotor. That is what that wire coming out the base is for. There is a connector in that wire. Well now you know you have a new Crank Sensor anyway
Last edited by onemore94dak; Dec 9, 2019 at 05:24 PM.
Thanks! That's the same page I used to look up the code when I found it. I wasn't sure what the camshaft sensor was or where it was located. Now to see if one of my local auto part stores has one in stock...
Just in case this helps anyone...
Do NOT try to find a camshaft position sensor through AutoZone or O'Reilly's search feature using that term - they say it doesn't exist (I tried when I changed the crankshaft sensor). After onemore94dak explained what I was looking for, and asking my best friend "Google" for the part, I found that the camshaft sensor is also known as a pick-up coil and found it on both AutoZone and O'Reilly's using that search term. Hope this is useful for someone else!
THANK YOU onemore94dak!
Do NOT try to find a camshaft position sensor through AutoZone or O'Reilly's search feature using that term - they say it doesn't exist (I tried when I changed the crankshaft sensor). After onemore94dak explained what I was looking for, and asking my best friend "Google" for the part, I found that the camshaft sensor is also known as a pick-up coil and found it on both AutoZone and O'Reilly's using that search term. Hope this is useful for someone else!
THANK YOU onemore94dak!
Last edited by Michelle Ronquillo; Dec 9, 2019 at 06:10 PM. Reason: Grammar
Before jumping the gun on saying that the new fuel pump is bad and you're getting or were getting a code 11 id be more likely to believe the new crank sensor was bad. Core 11 is no crankshaft/ distributor reference signal. So it's gotta be either the crank sensor, the distributor pick up, the wiring going to one or the other, or a dead computer.
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Sorry update has been so long in coming, but it's been a bear. The truck is now running like a champ! I ended up replacing the pick-up coil/camshaft position sensor and replacing the new crankshaft position sensor on the off-chance that the new sensor was bad out of the box. Nothing. Replaced the computer. Nothing. Felt like pulling all my hair out... lol. Did more research and found information on Dodge Splice 115. Why not? Nothing else was working. Found and redid the spice. Nothing. My last ditch effort before giving up was to try one more time to replace the new new crankshaft position sensor. Put the 3rd sensor in and the truck fired right up. Been driving it for a week now with absolutely no problems. Thanks for the input!











