We have a gut at at my work that used to build Dakotas at the factory, I took him for a ride he said the hubs are bad, I've never had a Dodge 4x4 before and my 89 s10 wasn't set up like this and it's the only 4x4 I've ever had besides a 01 wrangler
I'm going to put the one that I got with the spindle from powell's junk yard tonight because the brand new oneade the same noise so I assume I shouldn't buy the mevotech anymore
I'm going to put the one that I got with the spindle from powell's junk yard tonight because the brand new oneade the same noise so I assume I shouldn't buy the mevotech anymore
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RalphP
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Why, yes, Mevotech is not on the "Good to buy" list.Originally Posted by Wolfen1086
I'm going to put the one that I got with the spindle from powell's junk yard tonight because the brand new oneade the same noise so I assume I shouldn't buy the mevotech anymore
Try Timken, SKF, or Mopar. Moog might still be good; their quality has been heading downhill the last decade or more, but still.
RwP
Question..........Would a loose upper ball joint cause the problem I described? I removed the wheel brake caliper and rotor and started my standard inspection and found my upper ball joint starting to unscrew, so since I don't have a socket, I put a monkey wrench with smooth jaws on it and beat the hell out of it with a hammer till it didn't move anymore
Haven't put it back together yet, waiting till tomorrow so I can talk to Red Hawk and see if he knows where I can bu a ball joint socket locally before I order one
Haven't put it back together yet, waiting till tomorrow so I can talk to Red Hawk and see if he knows where I can bu a ball joint socket locally before I order one
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Good, because its still there after tightening that ball joints.Originally Posted by volaredon
Doubt it would cause that sort of noise, and if you ain't doing these ball joints that often, I did many with a pipe wrench back in the day.
Next question.......could it be brake noise? I swapped the rotors from side to side and he noise is still there on the right hand side, so I' starting to think its the brakes ? I put ANOTHER brand new never used (Timkin) hub on today torqued the 4 bolts to 110 ft lbs ad the shaft hut to 190 as per the Haynes manual, so I'm wondering if just maybe the caliper could be the problem?
That would be easy enough to fix, I can get seals dust covers and even pistons all day long
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I find it far more preferable to simply replace the caliper. They are more money than just the kit, but, you get a caliper that you KNOW will work.
How do the guide pins and bushings look?
How do the guide pins and bushings look?
Quote:
How do the guide pins and bushings look?
The guide pins and bushings are new,Originally Posted by HeyYou
I find it far more preferable to simply replace the caliper. They are more money than just the kit, but, you get a caliper that you KNOW will work.How do the guide pins and bushings look?
Quote:
Nope I rotated the rotors just in case and it stays the same, but I'l rebuilding building both calipers and replacing both RotorsOriginally Posted by volaredon
It's probably the other side making the noise.
rebuilding those calipers will be futile. You ever try to get a piston past those dust boots? If you have metal pistons and the chrome is chipped, or a plastic piston with any splits youll need to replace the piston, which isn't part of the kit and adding the price of the kit + a piston and you will certainly exceed the price of just using yours as cores.
But from what I understand your description of the noise youre chasing, brake work won't solve anything...… now if they are close to worn out and needing replaced anyway, it certainly wont hurt to go ahead and do the brakes, but you will still have your noise, almost guaranteed.
But from what I understand your description of the noise youre chasing, brake work won't solve anything...… now if they are close to worn out and needing replaced anyway, it certainly wont hurt to go ahead and do the brakes, but you will still have your noise, almost guaranteed.






