The fuel lines on my dakota are finally starting to fail around the frame rail ahead a of the fuel tank. What's the best way to repair these shy if getting new hard lines? Are the fittings for the fuel pump standard 5/16 disconnects or something else? Can I cut the rubber hoses where they marry up to the hard lines and just bridge to new hoses or lines. I suspect it's both the supply and return lines and if not I'm sure it will be once I start movibg things around. Seeking the best way to handle this as I'm not looking to spend mass amounts of money at this time

Thanks in advance

 

I wouldn't try to repair rusted fuel lines, that could end very poorly. I used copper-nickel lines for my brakes and they were super easy to work with compared to normal steel lines. They could probably work for fuel lines too, but maybe someone else could chime in on that.

I used this stuff and it was fantastic for brake lines. https://amzn.to/2vCPnNf

 

I agree with the GM product.

Ni-cop should work just fine for fuel lines, if you can get it in the correct size.

 

This is the third vote for Ni-cop lines (Nickle Copper). Easy to bend, easy to flair, but can hold brake line pressures (over 3,000 PSI!) and are not even waking up good at fuel line pressures (50PSI or less).

5/16 is readily available; so is 3/8". ( 3/8" can be had at .

Hint: 1) Buy or obtain some wire clothes hangers; the're the boss for prebending lines to adjust how long and how they're supposed to be bent, then you can bend the new line to match.

2) Use a real bending tool set to make smooth bends.

3) Pick up a double flare tool, then just barely bubble the end (enough to be seen and that's it!) as the first step, to make a seal to help keep the lines from leaking.

4) Double up on hose clamps; turn the screw of the worm drives 180* out (top and bottom, or left and right) to help keep them from leaking.

5) While running, consider adding a check valve between the pump and the fuel filter your 1992 has. If it's 3/8" (like I remember, but haven't measured recently!) you can use one of these: . That's so that you won't have to replace the pump if its check valve fails.

And.

While working on all of this, consider replacing the fuel pump ALSO. You'll already be swearing and cussing up a storm, might as well do it once for all instead of twice.

RwP

 

Wasn't planning on re using any of the hard metal, it's pure crap. In light of making new lines how do I deal with the flexible lines and the "quick disconnect" at the pump

 

Do a start of a bubble flare on the ends of the hard lines; do double hose clamps on the rubber.

Problem solved.

Use a short rubber stub at the fuel pump also.

That end will be easier to plumb with the bed off, BTW. Shucks, MOST of the hard will be easier with the bed off ...

Bed's not too heavy, a fat computer geek (ME!) and his stepson could remove/install the 8' bed on my 1988. Suggestion: EMPTY IT. Remove the tailgate. Remember to disconnect all harnesses from the bed. There's eight or nine bolts under the bed, and four around the filler neck, to remove to lift the bed. If you go in that far, consider replacing the rubber at the fuel tank AND the pump while it's all open and exposed. And if you're ever planning on wiring stuff up in the bed, run some harnesses in convulated or split conduit down the frame; you'll thank me for that later. Use several different color wires for that and just leave them coiled up and zip tied up under the bed until you get to using them. (Say for bed lights, a third brake light, trailer brakes, extra power for a light bar for a backup light, whatever.)

RwP

 

I will take that into consideration. My bed has already experienced the great salt diet weight reduction program. I don't thinkbi will be adding any electrical accessories onto the bed at this time just because this is the vehicle I use for just hauling and being my spare.

 

Heh. OK. Just thought I'd toss that out there.

If it's been "weight reduced" enough, you might be able to lift and carry it much easier than my 8' was ...

RwP