So what is wrong with the motor? FWIW I like projects like this........ May not be what I want to do to my truck, but this is what hot rodding is all about. Like to read and see, and help others!!

 

I think a Dakota duely would certainly be unique. And the Toyota version D60 probably wouldn't be that difficult to fit under the truck. Might have to move the spring mounts inside the frame though...... This is definitely a project I would love to see documented here.

 

I've been thinking (really!!!). If you do decide to go the dual route, you're going to have to trim the snot out of the bed sides. You might want to go with a small flat bed. They do make small one although most of the used ones I see are for full sized trucks. I've even seen custom ones made out of heavily varnished wood. Done right, those look sharp.

 

What's wrong with it I'd like to know.
1993 318 with 260000 miles.
It started running rough, no power, it would shake terribly between 40 and 65, but only with no load.
I checked the codes. They pointed to the injectors and the EGR. By the time it's all said and done I now have all new injectors, injector connectors, I blocked off the EGR. Earlier new plugs, wires, and cap
So currently it starts up instantly. Always has.
but has no power and runs rough. It does not smoke or seem to burn anything. But, was thinking about the head gasket. I haven't touched it in a while but I think maybe one of the plugs was wet when a pulled it out. While I had my big, fat ***, under the hood I broke a bunch of the ridged plastic vacuum lines. I put them back the best I could, but they might not be right. I work outside. It's been too cold to be out there but the weather is about to change.

 

My 93 Dakota has mostly original vacuum lines (a couple newer ones). I'm sure they're pretty dried out so I'd like to replace them all. Should be fun finding all of them and replacing them with the right sizes.

 

If you don't mind using flex hose instead of rigid, most all of it will be 1/8" ID. I'm using some blue silicon vacuum hose on my1988.

Biggest problem will be the transitions; I see if there's a stub left of the rigid hose, then can Goop it and use that to seal.

Another choice would be 1/8" ID steel, copper, or aluminum hose (possibly the same copper-nickel alloy used for a lot of replacement brake hoses?) for the rigid stuff. I've considered that; but was too lazy to bend it

RwP

 

Ya, the snapped lines I replaced with flexible hose.
Did what I could get it right. Whatever I did cause's it to whistle when first started and for the first block. Then it stops. I'm still throwing an Egr and injector code after replacing all of that stuff.
like I said, that's as far as I got. It became too cold. But the weather is breaking.

 

If you want to get wild - check the vacuum diagrams under the hood and in the factory service manual.

Order several colors vacuum hose.

Use the colors to signify what they are; that way when you go to troubleshoot in six years, you'll hopefully remember where each one goes and what each one does.

Also - if you go to a U-Pull-It, grab the vacuum solenoid pack on a couple of trucks. Those solenoids are currently about $70 each at RockAuto (!!) and I don't see them getting cheaper or more available in the future.

RwP

 

Thanks I'll do that. I was just out there and found the whistling is coming from the rear chamber of what used to be a carburetor I don't know what you call it now with EFI. Throttle body? Anyway there is a huge suction going on there. Is it normal? I have "plate" under the EGR. It stops about a block down the road.

 

I have followed the diagrams I could find. I'm pretty sure they are right. It runs as bad as it did before I got under there. Like I said new injectors, injector connectors, plugs, wires, and even a new EGR.
it still throws an injector and EGR codes