frame mounted hitches
pulling a trailer and equipment that has a combined weight of 1/2 a ton. Would it be wise to use the bumper and ball hitch that is on my 92 dakota? Or is it too dangerous?
first time owner
I will invest into a class 3 hitch in the future, any recommendations on that?
first time owner
I will invest into a class 3 hitch in the future, any recommendations on that?
Last edited by yermyjermy; Feb 27, 2020 at 02:29 PM.
I wouldn't use the bumper pull at all on any of these trucks. They're chrome clad and can get rusty in-between where you can't see, until you try towing and it rips the ball out. I'm constantly looking at/for these trucks and so many have damage consistent with the ball being pulled out with rust in that area.
A frame mounted hitch could be had for $20 from a parts guy/junkyard. I'd recommend doing that before you risk your bumper and payload.
A frame mounted hitch could be had for $20 from a parts guy/junkyard. I'd recommend doing that before you risk your bumper and payload.
Don't know what year you have but searching "1st gen Dakota class 3 hitches" gets a lot. The lowest price was a Curt for $130.
I had a 95 Pathfinder I put a Curt hitch on it and pulled a lot of stuff over mountains in a closed 8x10 trailer and towed a Jetta with no problems. I would never do that with a bumper hitch.
EDIT- Doh palm forehead Just reread your ad its a 92 and now that I think about it I used a draw tite on that Pathfinder
https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1992_Dodge_Dakota.htm
I had a 95 Pathfinder I put a Curt hitch on it and pulled a lot of stuff over mountains in a closed 8x10 trailer and towed a Jetta with no problems. I would never do that with a bumper hitch.
EDIT- Doh palm forehead Just reread your ad its a 92 and now that I think about it I used a draw tite on that Pathfinder
https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1992_Dodge_Dakota.htm
Last edited by onemore94dak; Feb 28, 2020 at 09:37 AM.
Here's the one I put on my Dakota.
Again, for a 1992, you should only have to drill one hole each side; my 1988 I needed to drill two each side. Use a 1/2" bit and drill slowly.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000765DMC/ EDIT: As I check it's $128; as a Prime member I got it free shipping.
Instructions are included, as were the parts needed. All I had to supply was some muscle and a drill with a bit.
I DID have to use an angle grinder to cut the old ball off the bumper, though. YMMV on that.
RwP
Again, for a 1992, you should only have to drill one hole each side; my 1988 I needed to drill two each side. Use a 1/2" bit and drill slowly.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000765DMC/ EDIT: As I check it's $128; as a Prime member I got it free shipping.
Instructions are included, as were the parts needed. All I had to supply was some muscle and a drill with a bit.
I DID have to use an angle grinder to cut the old ball off the bumper, though. YMMV on that.
RwP
Last edited by RalphP; Feb 28, 2020 at 09:40 AM. Reason: Typed in price as of 28 Feb 2020
If the bumper is in good shape, 1000 pounds is well within it's rating. I think it's rated at 3500 pounds maximum. Personally, I prefer to use a frame mounted receiver so there is a variety of hitches you can put in it. Use an equalizer hitch and trailer brake controller and you'd be surprised how large a load you can pull. I pulled a 1962 Ford Galxie XLT home on a flat bed with a 1988 S-10 with a 2.8 V-6 and 5 speed manual. I didn't go very fast and I got a lot of looks, including an Illinois State Trooper. He was more interested in the car I was hauling once he saw the equalizer bars. I wouldn't recommend it, but it was what I had available at the time.
Trending Topics
The chrome clad came off my bumper. That's where the capacity info was stamped in. Now I don't know what the capacity of mine is. I angle grinded the clad off, cleaned everything up, and painted some of that rubberized black crap on it to dress it up.










