You still have air in the lines somewhere, or, a leak. Is the brake light on?

 

Brake light is not on. I'm going to blead the system again. I found some information that said to bleed the brakes with the cap off the MC to prevent air lock in the lines, mine was on so maybe the problem

 

Have a friend help. Park your friend in the drivers seat, have them pump up the brakes, and HOLD pressure, while you crack open the bleeder valves. Do that until you don't get anymore air at EACH wheel. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Don't let the MC go empty either. if you do, you get to start all over again.

 

For a shade tree one man bleeder. Get a pop bottle that will stand on its own. Drill a hole through the cap that will tightly accept a hose that fits snugly over the bleeder and stays there. pour a few inches of brake fluid in the bottle. Use a hose that will reach from the bleeder and extend into the bottle with its end at the bottom of the bottle under the fluid. Then you can crack the bleeder open and pump the brakes yourself (carefully) and it won't suck in air when you let up. You know you've been pushing out fluid not air as the level in the bottle goes up. It will probably be a lot darker too.

 

Thanks for the help and advices . I have someone at the pedal while I crack the bleeders. The weird thing is I know that I start passenger rear then driver rear and front passenger finish with driver front. When I got the truck the line from the HSPV was broken from the valve to the rear rubber line. I replaced it with the two others just because the two lines going into the HSPV from the front were not great, here is the weird part after replacing the lines I got nothing to the rear brakes until I need the front first, of course the I saw the wheel cylinders leaking and bar shoes so I replaced all of it. I get fluid to all

 

I just had the same issue, ended up having a leaky wheel cylinder in the rear. I am going to replace the other side aswell.. I also had to replace the master cylinder as it was leaking fluid past the seals and did not exert pressure. If the fluid is leaking past the rubber seals on the shaft in the master cylinder you will not get pressure to the brakes. Seems to be pretty common on these things. One of the symptoms I was experiencing was that it was intermittent. I remember my brakes would start working again when the weather warmed up vs in winter time they stopped working all together.

The bad wheel cylinder was putting air in the system. Took me a really long time to bleed the air out. It was weird, it would be straight fluid, then suddenly I would get air again, as if there were multiple air bubbles in the line.

I was always under the impression that If your brake booster was shot or malfunctioning, you would notice it would be harder to brake. It's just there to make the job easier to make the pushrod move through the master cylinder.