Stalling dakota/ now a nightmare
#11
Thank you I will give it a try. I did the key dance and got a 12 code. Memory standby and power loss. Any idea what that’s telling me. We did disconnect the neg terminal for a fee and reconnected and turned key on for about 15 seconds then started it. Engine light went off and idle went back down and then it died. Started back up but immediately died. Then it wouldn’t start at all and gas smell was strong. I’m almost through with this truck.
It's dying because the IAC is, well, Fouled Up Beyond All Repair at this point. Can't idle with a screwed IAC.
There may be other problems, but that's my first call.
RwP
#12
On the FAQ page in the PDF downloadable manuals there is a 1996 Factory Service Manual. You should get that. I remember when I first got mine I was doing a bunch of neglected maintenance and the instructions for the IAC removal/cleaning stated not to turn it or adjust it when I cleaned it. Just spray it and lightly brush it. I suggested the reset because you mentioned it had been altered and I thought it might solve the adjustment problem. But Ralph is probably correct you need a new MOPAR Idle Air Controller.(IAC)
#13
The engine light went off and the idle back down to 7-8oo RPM. I think everything on this truck needs to be replaced. When I got it and got home with it I changed the oil first thing. It was black as the ace of spades. Within a week it started having super misfire so I did plugs and wires and it’s just gone down hill. So far it appears that the majority of the sensors are factory. Poor truck is choking. I’m going to try the crankshaft and cam shaft sensors today and I’ll inspect the distributor and rotor for any cracks or damage. If it’s still doing the same thing I may have to just, I was going to say give up, but I’m not a quitter at anything I do or have done my whole life. Why start now. I’m grateful for all your feedback. I’m somewhat stubborn in my ways so I’m going with the crank and cam sensors today. I’ll let you know how things go. Is there any relearning that the pcm will need after I replace them. Please let me know. Thanks sweetie
#15
Since I don't have the Haynes manual, I dunno.
There are those that do it from the top of the motor; but the FSM shows coming through the fender well to get to it.
And that does require a bit of disassembly.
It may depend on how long armed you are, how flat the belly is, and how good you are at doing things by touch instead of seeing. (I'm short armed and fat bellied; I have NO chance of reaching!)
RwP
There are those that do it from the top of the motor; but the FSM shows coming through the fender well to get to it.
And that does require a bit of disassembly.
It may depend on how long armed you are, how flat the belly is, and how good you are at doing things by touch instead of seeing. (I'm short armed and fat bellied; I have NO chance of reaching!)
RwP
#16
Okay well that tells me that it’s going to be difficult either way here. We’re talking short body, arms and a little chubby. Yikes...😊....Hmm...Could the map sensor be key to this puzzle. Now I’m looking at the easy fixes. After all I’ve replaced it’s still doing the exact same thing. I’m sure my injectors need looking at. I was not prepared for this truck to act stupid like this. Not at all. Wow...I need my truck running but maybe I’ll just take a day. One other thing. If I hooked up the obdII and pulled up some diagnostic specs or what ever they are referred to. What exactly would I look for. I’m probably asking a lot. Would that sort of info be I. My repair manual or is there info like that right here in the dodge forum? Thanks again sweetie
#17
There's some in the FSM; I have no idea what's in the Haynes since I haven't looked at mine in, oh, six years or so.
But a LOT of it is sanity checks.
Check the ECT - if it says it's believable (i.e., 140F after it's run a while), then it's probably good - but if it says it's -40F then it's farked.
See what voltage the ECU sees.
See what RPM it sees.
See what kind of signal it's sending to the IAC.
What kind of signal is it getting from the crank and cam position sensors?
Etc. etc.
Do remember the computer's stupid - if the ECT says it's -40F, it'll work like it's -40F, and run for those conditions, even if it's a balmy 105F in the shade ... So our task as humans is to make sure the inputs resemble what the real world is, so it can do a decent job of controlling the engine!
RwP
But a LOT of it is sanity checks.
Check the ECT - if it says it's believable (i.e., 140F after it's run a while), then it's probably good - but if it says it's -40F then it's farked.
See what voltage the ECU sees.
See what RPM it sees.
See what kind of signal it's sending to the IAC.
What kind of signal is it getting from the crank and cam position sensors?
Etc. etc.
Do remember the computer's stupid - if the ECT says it's -40F, it'll work like it's -40F, and run for those conditions, even if it's a balmy 105F in the shade ... So our task as humans is to make sure the inputs resemble what the real world is, so it can do a decent job of controlling the engine!
RwP