This truck is killing me financially. I’ve replaced the TPS, IACV, Ignition coil, plugs and wires, pulled the fuel tank and cleaned it and made sure that the new fuel pump is working properly. It will crank and fire at first but won’t stay running. Then when I try to start it it acts like it’s not getting fuel. Did a pressure check and it was at 55. So pressure was good. I need to wait a couple days before I can get a new battery in the dang truck. What’s left to make this nightmare run? St my wits end. Oh and it’s back firing here and there. Please give me some insight. Thank you
Shelley

 

It's a 1996, with the OBDII port?

Time to find someone with a scanner - or pick up a Bluetooth adapter and install Torque Free on an Android device with Bluetooth - and see what the ECU THINKS is going on.

But before you do that - replace that battery. Bad battery == Mopar No Run Worth ****.

RwP

 

I have a scanner. Today is the first time I found a code. It was for ignition coil. I replaced that. Just need a battery now.

 

Quick question. I’m browsing batteries. What group battery do I need to get. I’m pretty good with certain aspect of a vehicle for a woman. But batteries I’m not hip to.

 

I THINK it's also a Group 34 like my 1988; but I am not positive.

Batteries Plus shows Group 24 and Group 27 batteries.

I'd opt for an AGM from a reputable company. (I'm about to buy a Duracell AGM from Batteries Plus for my 1988.)

RwP

 

Hi again. I got a real battery for the truck. I was told I should put the factory iacv back in the truck cuz the after market one didn’t seem right. Well that I cannot do because my nephew dissected it without my knowledge. The new one is in the truck, but since I got the new battery and my sister pushing the pintle all the way in because she read something in the repair manual. Now the engine light is on with a code of PO505. (Idle control system malfunction) The idle is now roaring at 2000 RPM. DOES THE COMPUTER NEED TO RE-learn the idle or is the iacv not good after my sister pushed it all the way in. Please help

 

The IAC is, to use the technical term, "right royally ****ed".

Go spring for another one, and get your sister to buy it.

And tell her to NOT **** with something she doesn't know what she's doing with, unless it's hers, hers only, and hers alone.

RwP

 

Hi thanks for your response. I got a chuckle that was much needed. I put the old one back in and the idle roared at 2000 for about 30 seconds and went down to 800 and then died. I started it back up, it roared for a second went down to 800 and stayed running. I’m taking it for a test drive as soon as I clear the code

 

If your code reader is any good it should have a IAC reset on it.
On code clearing. Disconnect the neg battery cable for 5 minutes while it is off turn the key on for 30 seconds then two more times. It doesn't make sense to me since I am not an electrical guy but apparently there is residual electricity enough in the system that the PCM will hold memory if it is not drained. And turning the key on like that drains it. ??? I noticed a big difference in how the truck responded after I did it as opposed to when I just disconnected the cable and put it back on after 5 minutes.

 

Thank you I will give it a try. I did the key dance and got a 12 code. Memory standby and power loss. Any idea what that’s telling me. We did disconnect the neg terminal for a fee and reconnected and turned key on for about 15 seconds then started it. Engine light went off and idle went back down and then it died. Started back up but immediately died. Then it wouldn’t start at all and gas smell was strong. I’m almost through with this truck.