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Stranded, swapped ecm, lasted 2 days

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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:44 PM
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Default Stranded, swapped ecm, lasted 2 days

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Devon Farber's Avatar Devon Farber , Today 08:38 PM
Chp pushed me off the highway. Had it running after 10 days straight working on this bitch.
new
Crnk,cam,fst idle sens.
Cap,rotor, coil
Fuel pump, filter.
Harness engine bay hands all in it.

Crank no start.
Swapped what I think is map, and mad sense. All throttle bodys sensors done.
Found I had no rubber gasket on bell housing for my crank sensor. Swapped it out too ( several cps senses gouged from flywheel. )
So I hoped gasket would help . ..
Back to test lights and dmm. The pdc when in run position I get 3 hits on the 1,2nd relays 1 hot on 3rd(asd) and 4th 1 hot and test lights flicks low green indicating a short?
Please advise




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chasebh89 , Yesterday 08:21 AM
So I'm back at it on my 91 dak. I've replaced the fuel pump, filter, both injectors, has new fuel (91+octane booster), and a new coolant temp sensor. My issue is that it will hold at 60mph no problem for a while but will begin to chug hard and I lose engine power and when I move the throttle it just cuts out, I have to reduce speed to 50mph and then it'll chug harder so I reduce to 45mph where it will chug hard, but hold speed... I can pull over or take left/right turns and it come out of it for a few seconds before returning. When I take turns I'll have all engine power, no stuttering, and can accelerate up to 50 before it starts chugging again.
I'm at my wit's end with this thing, next parts I'm getting is a MAP sensor and a coil... I don't know if I just got a lemon fuel pump or if there's something electrical wrong with it but it's so intermittent it's hard to pin down, immediately after my last fill up it ran 100% perfectly like this never happened. Tried testing fuel pressure but I couldn't get it to chug unless I was driving...
does anyone have a clue as to what might be going on or anything I should test? I really don't want to put a new pump in but I'm getting one just in case I do.


Edit : finally managed to get it to spit codes, the only ones that are related to the problem are; 51 fuel system lean, 27 injector control circuit, 15 no vehicle speed sensor signal, 42 asd relay circuit
i tested the injector connector while it was running and got similar results on both injectors, however the problem doesn't present itself until I drive
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Old May 2, 2020 | 12:54 AM
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Default Pdc readings


This is pdc test light readings in (run) position @the pdc(relays would be upside down dropping into pdc viewed as shown, colors are of pdc terminal readings
Resistence on relays are. 70.5, 71, 70.5, 71.5

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Old May 2, 2020 | 01:07 AM
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Default Stranded

swapped ecm, lasted 2 days

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Devon Farber's Avatar Devon Farber , Today 09:54 PM
Pdc readings

This is pdc test light readings in (run) position @the pdc(relays would be upside down dropping into pdc viewed as shown, colors are of pdc terminal readings
Resistence on relays are. 70.5, 71, 70.5, 71.5

Correction

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Old May 2, 2020 | 01:11 AM
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Default Crank no start, stranded. Please help

I've been losing this battle for 2 weeks damn near. Swapped ecm. New sensors. Cap rotor.
fuel pump,
Hell even tore apart key cylinder housing(found bent start contact(run/start).
Crank no start.
Computer lasted 2 ,3 days. Died on highway. Towed home.
 

Last edited by Devon Farber; May 2, 2020 at 01:13 AM. Reason: Title, crank no start
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Old May 2, 2020 | 03:41 PM
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The coil readings are about right for out of circuit on the relays (they're nominally 80 ohms, but that's a +- 20% reading, according to Bosch.)

On the CPS sensors, are you using the manual sensor, or the automatic sensor? By the word "flywheel" I presume yours is a 5 speed manual, right?

If they're not Mopar sensors, you may need to spend the coin and buy a Mopar sensor.

RwP
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
The coil readings are about right for out of circuit on the relays (they're nominally 80 ohms, but that's a +- 20% reading, according to Bosch.)

On the CPS sensors, are you using the manual sensor, or the automatic sensor? By the word "flywheel" I presume yours is a 5 speed manual, right?

If they're not Mopar sensors, you may need to spend the coin and buy a Mopar sensor.

RwP
I have tried before some after market, and it rubbed. So I cleaned the harness and threw the old back in. Worked no problem. This go around I did poach the gromet(u shaped 3/16ths thick) mounts in bell housing. And its auto 46rh I believe.
so thank you for your response. I will switch out with the donor. Which ran and looks all original.
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 11:35 PM
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So not a flywheel, but a flex plate and torque converter.

Gotcha.

(It do make a difference ... )

Try the other CPS then and see if it gets happy.

RwP
 
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Old May 3, 2020 | 10:12 PM
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Were the sensors mopar?
These trucks hate off brand sensors!
An which ones did you replace?
Any codes?
 

Last edited by hidden1; May 3, 2020 at 10:16 PM.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by hidden1
Were the sensors mopar?
These trucks hate off brand sensors!
An which ones did you replace?
Any codes?
no codes, was 12,55. That's normal for my circuit breaker I do utilize often.
I've replaced damn near all sensors but for one, up until recently didn't know existed.(its 12oclock on bell housing behind and below egr stuff. It's not the cps.
New cam, crank, map, maf, both thermo's. Cap, rotor(of which I read and checked and concur the donor rotor electrode standing side by side is1/8- 3/16ths longer? Mopar OEM? ) , new coil. Ecm swapped started, ran for 3 days and died.
 
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Old May 4, 2020 | 12:28 AM
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The only one ON the bell housing is the crank position sensor; but the oil switch/sending unit is back there on the back of the block.

I'm going to say you have a connector that's bad, with an intermittent.

Which one, I don't know; you may need to take them ALL apart.

Too bad it's not a 1996, where you can ask the ECU what's going on fairly cheaply.

RwP
 
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