You can find reman'ed compressors and everything but lines; those may still be available for your year.

But if not, if they're steel, most hydraulic companies can remake with barrier hoses.

If you DO go in that far, I'd replace the evaporator and the heater core, plus the blower motor, while it's apart. Also the condensor up front; all of that is getting older.

I'm going to try some RedTec refrigerant when my "new" compressor finally makes it here. It's a butane-based one, so it's not one to use if you even suspect a leak; but it also doesn't require vacuuming down the lines to work, so there's that.

RwP

 

Butane based? As in "flammable"??? That doesn't really seem like such a good idea in a road-going vehicle......

 

Check out the specs of 1234yf sometimes ... it's also flammable. Turns out hydrocarbons do better than flurocarbons at the heat transfer and state changes.

But yes; it's HIGHLY recommended the system be in almost perfect shape before using RedTec.

OTOH, it's not that much; it dissipates quickly; and it is very VERY hard to ignite even on a catastrophic failure of the A/C system due to this pesky thing called "air/fuel mixture" and "latent heat"

RwP

 

Dont have the GMC motorhome yet but the one I was considering had an 'unknown condition' engine driven AC system and was missing the roof top unit as well courtesy of a crazy prior owner. The roof unit is easily solved by installing new unit but the engine mounted AC system is important for the driver, so for me it needs to work. In 1977 GM was still using the venerable Frigidaire units so I'm hopeful that a little service work will make it serviceable.

As for butane refrigerant does that mean you can install an in-dash hose attached butane lighter plumbed into the AC system? That would be interesting...lol

Steve

 

Heh.

No, don't think you can, Steve.

I've picked RedTek (sorry for earlier misspelling - Red Tec is a manufacturer of BBQ grills!) - see https://redtek.com/

It's not actually butane, but it's close chemically.

RwP

 

Hey Steve,
Im with you on, "ac is a must" That being said, this time of the year, assuming the blower is fine, I would check for power at the compressor coil, if no power, I would then check the low pressure switch. If no power there, I would run a temp. wire with a fuse to the low pressure switch, and maybe put a toggle switch on it. Heck even if you have to raise the hood each time you drive it, to turn it on, its worth it to have ac in this heat. As soon as the weather breaks, then chase down what is failing.

 

Early a/c systems, both stationary and mobile, used Ammonia and other really nasty things to act as a refrigerant. Adding something like Butane to a system that hasn't been evacuated (leaving air, i.e. oxygen) in it as you now have fuel, oxidizer and when it's running, heat. That's the tripod of a fire.

If you get the RV and want a/c for the driver, go with a street rod set up and just put a new system on it. The same with the roof unit. The ones that run off the shoreline are usually self contained. The one on my old class B actually got too cold if you didn't watch it.