1993 Dodge Dakota, 5.2L, Auto Trans, 2WD

I知 curious if anyone knows what the specified charging rate is at idle. People have told me 13.8v, 14.7v and all points between. I知 not looking for opinion. I want to know what is specified in the manual. I can dig thru the sticky manuals myself but am wondering if anyone knows off the top of their head. Thanks!

 

That's because the charging voltage - or even IF it's charging! - will depend on several variables.

And that's not an opinion.

The manual specifies using a 150A meter, a voltmeter, a carbon pile, and some rewiring to test charging voltage.

But the actual voltage at idle will vary, depending on the battery charge, the current load, the temperature, and several other variables.

Now.

Let me ask, what are you trying to determine?

You've asked which drill bit is best; I want to know what you're drilling a hole for and what you're drilling into

RwP

 

I'm throwing a code 46" "Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation. (voltage too high)"

I was pushing 14.4v using my DMM. I have an adjustable external voltage regulator. I just lowered it to 14.24v. Still throwing the code but I checked just after I adjusted it...didn't drive anywhere. I will recheck after I've driven a bit. Maybe the code will vanish.

I rather trust the computer more than what I hear on You Tube videos.

 

Try 13.9 to 14.2V at 1500 RPM, not at idle.

At idle, the output voltage won't be its max due to, well, there's just not enough alternator speed to be at full output.

And, with an external voltage regulator, you'll get errors since the ECU tunes for, say, 13.5 due to battery temp etc. and your regulator is set for 14.2, which is CLEARLY a problem because the voltage isn't what the ECU is demanding!

Did you use a field replacement module (aka "horribly overpriced resistor") to fake the field on the ECU?

RwP

 

Yes. I received an FRM with my external voltage regulator kit. It did not kill the CHECK ENGINE light which I was told by the AlternatorMan it might do (though he did say not in all cases). I originally was getting a code 41 (alternator) but a little later on I was getting a 41 and a 46. Maybe the 46 is going to join the 41 in being permanent. If that's the case, I just need to adjust that regulator to a voltage I trust. 13.9 - 14.2v at 1500RPM sounds reasonable to me. I'll work on that in the next day or two. Thanks for your input. I'll report back with my results.

It seems to me I was getting around 14 - 14.1v (at idle) prior to installing the external regulator. But geez, I cannot be certain. My memory started to fade long ago.

 

Doctor says I am having problems with short term memory.

He also says I am having problems with short term memory.

RwP

 

So I went back and decreased the voltage from the regulator from 14.24v to 14.04v at idle. I increased the rpm to 1500 and held it steady. The voltage actually dropped a little (to 14.01v). Wasn't expecting that. Then from idle, I cranked on everything I had...headlights, brights, dome lights, fan, radio. The voltage did not change one iota. Held steady at 14.04v. Again, I did not expect that. Thought it would drop maybe a couple tenths.

So not sure what to say. I'll keep it at 14.04v. The CHECK ENGINE light can do whatever it wants. It doesn't listen to me anyway. I feel comfortable at 14.04v so that's where it will stay for now. That's a number within a range that I hear frequently and also within the range Ralph thought was acceptable.