No power
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,724
Likes: 153
If you have the 95fsm (free in FAQ section) chapter 21 is transmission. Section "in vehicle service" starts page 125 in the book. I didn't look at what page pdf was showing.I think you need to look at page 128 for checking the throttle cable adjustment at the trans and the throttle body. As for adjusting it at the throttle body you can have great changes with small movements of 1/16th to 1/8 so "tightness" might not matter. And it is really the internal cable that moves and gets fixed in place not the housing.
I was looking at your Original post it doesn't really say what happened once it lost power. I had that happen on my ram50 and never got the power back but it still drove. years later I found out about the balancer belt which is what had broken... :/ We don't have those on the Daks
Can you describe what happened after it lost power please? Did it drive home? were you under load? etc
I was looking at your Original post it doesn't really say what happened once it lost power. I had that happen on my ram50 and never got the power back but it still drove. years later I found out about the balancer belt which is what had broken... :/ We don't have those on the Daks
Can you describe what happened after it lost power please? Did it drive home? were you under load? etc
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 157
Likes: 21
From: Orangevale, Ca
I was driving up a grade that was about mile long. About 1/3 of the way up, the truck suddenly lost power. It would barely move. I pulled over and came to a stop. The engine didn’t die immediately but surged, coughed, ran very rough and slowly died. I could restart it but it wouldn’t stay running. I had it towed home.
I can start it, back down the driveway, and crawl about a block, all the time with the engine surging, barely running. Then I can turn it around and get it back up the driveway, into the garage, before it dies again.
When I start it in the garage, with no load, it runs very rough and slowly dies at idle. It feels like it is starved for air. I can smell unburnt gas. Black soot and some water come out the tail pipe. If I run it a little and take out the plugs, they are covered in soot.
Today I am replacing the ECT sensor and connector, and checking the timing with a dwell meter. I’ll look closely at the throttle cable back to the transmission. I’ll see if it became disconnected from the transmission and if I can get it adjusted perfectly.
I can start it, back down the driveway, and crawl about a block, all the time with the engine surging, barely running. Then I can turn it around and get it back up the driveway, into the garage, before it dies again.
When I start it in the garage, with no load, it runs very rough and slowly dies at idle. It feels like it is starved for air. I can smell unburnt gas. Black soot and some water come out the tail pipe. If I run it a little and take out the plugs, they are covered in soot.
Today I am replacing the ECT sensor and connector, and checking the timing with a dwell meter. I’ll look closely at the throttle cable back to the transmission. I’ll see if it became disconnected from the transmission and if I can get it adjusted perfectly.
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 157
Likes: 21
From: Orangevale, Ca
I did a compression and leak down test. Compression for all eight cylinders was between 175 and 185. No leakdown problem. It held steady for at least 30 min.
I read that distributors are almost never a problem, because there is not much that can wrong with them. I haven’t replaced the distributor.
I read that distributors are almost never a problem, because there is not much that can wrong with them. I haven’t replaced the distributor.
Grand Champion
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 5,156
Likes: 721
From: S.W. Indiana
I was driving up a grade that was about mile long. About 1/3 of the way up, the truck suddenly lost power. It would barely move. I pulled over and came to a stop. The engine didn’t die immediately but surged, coughed, ran very rough and slowly died. I could restart it but it wouldn’t stay running. I had it towed home.
I can start it, back down the driveway, and crawl about a block, all the time with the engine surging, barely running. Then I can turn it around and get it back up the driveway, into the garage, before it dies again.
When I start it in the garage, with no load, it runs very rough and slowly dies at idle. It feels like it is starved for air. I can smell unburnt gas. Black soot and some water come out the tail pipe. If I run it a little and take out the plugs, they are covered in soot.
Today I am replacing the ECT sensor and connector, and checking the timing with a dwell meter. I’ll look closely at the throttle cable back to the transmission. I’ll see if it became disconnected from the transmission and if I can get it adjusted perfectly.
I can start it, back down the driveway, and crawl about a block, all the time with the engine surging, barely running. Then I can turn it around and get it back up the driveway, into the garage, before it dies again.
When I start it in the garage, with no load, it runs very rough and slowly dies at idle. It feels like it is starved for air. I can smell unburnt gas. Black soot and some water come out the tail pipe. If I run it a little and take out the plugs, they are covered in soot.
Today I am replacing the ECT sensor and connector, and checking the timing with a dwell meter. I’ll look closely at the throttle cable back to the transmission. I’ll see if it became disconnected from the transmission and if I can get it adjusted perfectly.
A dwell meter just measures the point gap. The wider the gap, the smaller the dwell. You don't have points. Either your fuel in rushing into the engine like HeyYou said or, if you have a lot of miles, you may have jumped time.
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 157
Likes: 21
From: Orangevale, Ca
I put a new ECT sensor and a new electrical connector today. I’m not sure you can test the ECT but I get zero voltage at pin 2 of the PCM with the key on.
I also took the vacuum line off the EGR and plugged it. No change.
I looked for any loose connections and cleaned all the ground wires I could find.
I put on a new timing chain about a week ago. I guess it is possible I didn’t get the cam aligned perfectly. I’m not ready to take the timing cover off and check it again, but it’s on my list.
I read the manual for my multimeter and figured out that it wouldn’t work for dwell.
I think I’ll measure the output volume from the fuel pump.
How does fuel get regulated to the injectors? It’s not by the regulator on the pump is it?
No luck so far.
I also took the vacuum line off the EGR and plugged it. No change.
I looked for any loose connections and cleaned all the ground wires I could find.
I put on a new timing chain about a week ago. I guess it is possible I didn’t get the cam aligned perfectly. I’m not ready to take the timing cover off and check it again, but it’s on my list.
I read the manual for my multimeter and figured out that it wouldn’t work for dwell.
I think I’ll measure the output volume from the fuel pump.
How does fuel get regulated to the injectors? It’s not by the regulator on the pump is it?
No luck so far.
Last edited by Flounderguy; Jan 29, 2022 at 10:47 PM.
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,724
Likes: 153
I'm glad the compression is good. I hope olGrouch is right. I have this manual method I copied off another site a few years back for setting the fuel sync. that is what tells the injectors when to fire. I think you probably know it but just in case
Remove negative battery cable.
Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scanner.
Remove negative battery cable.
Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scanner.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,464
Likes: 4,219
From: Clayton MI
93 magnum engine? The fuel system is returnless, so, the regulator on the pump is all you got. Should be a valve on the fuel rail to put a pressure gauge on. I think yours should be right about 40 PSI.
Are you not getting a 5 volt signal to the temp sensor?? If you aren't, that is most certainly a problem.
Are you not getting a 5 volt signal to the temp sensor?? If you aren't, that is most certainly a problem.
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 157
Likes: 21
From: Orangevale, Ca
No power
I'm glad the compression is good. I hope olGrouch is right. I have this manual method I copied off another site a few years back for setting the fuel sync. that is what tells the injectors when to fire. I think you probably know it but just in case
Remove negative battery cable.
Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scanner.
Remove negative battery cable.
Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scanner.
I also did as you recommended about the throttle cable to the transmission. The connection at the transmission looked good. I did an adjustment at the throttle body. It had been a little off.
