I have 95 with a 3.9l magnum. After the install since the first start up it's running loudly, lagging, and backfiring really badly when reved up and let off the throttle. I noticed the new flywheels' reluctor ring was maybe 15-20 degrees off compared to the old one. I wasn't overly concerned about it, I just made sure that there was no other possible way to put on with the bolt pattern.

​​​​​​I Checked to make sure I didn't crush anything when installing the trans and even replaced the Crank position sensor since the old one looked like it had a crack in it but had no change.

​​​​​​I Also tried disconnecting the positive lead to the battery and grounding it to the frame to reset the pcm.
I've also verified that at TDC 0 degrees the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 mark

From what I gather this is a fuel sync issue. I've read that I can reset it with a mt2500 snap on scanner, about $150-$250 on eBay.

I also dug up an old thread with the original poster saying they did a D.I.Y. fuel sync with a voltmeter.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-dakota-tech/359216-diy-fuel-sync-without-scan-tools.html
I'll try this after work today .

Sorry for the wall of text, any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks

 

Didn't smack the distributor cap/rotor when changing the trans, by letting the engine hang down to far?

 

There is a guy called Larry posting as J&J Auto on another Dakota dot net site who I found years ago had posted instructions back before 2010, for doing it manually by eye. Couldn't find that post but saw a couple others with an abbreviated set of instructions. Chrysler recommended sync is at 0. Larry swears a +3- +6 is best for the V6 magnum. The range being due to each motor being a little different. He doesn't say what scanner he used when he got one. According to Hughes different scanners have different parameters?????
I have a PDF set of instructions from Hughes Engines for replacing the Distributor that is basically the same instructions. They make a big deal out of using a DRB or SnapOn scanner after the initial start. Let me see if I can copy them here.

Magnum Engine Distributor Removal, Replacement, Re-syncing
When the distributor is removed and replaced in the magnum (fuel-injected) engines, the distributor must be
synchronized to properly time the injector pulse (spray), similar to the ignition timing for the spark plugs. The
distributor does not control the spark timing that is controlled by the computer.
When the distributor is re-installed you need to get the sync close enough to start the engine so you can get it
properly synced
If the intermediate shaft was removed, as when replacing the camshaft, it must be correctly positioned before the
distributor is installed. The slot in the top of the intermediate shaft must be positioned so that the slot runs from
an 11:00 o’clock to a 5:00 o’clock position when cylinder #1 is at TDC compression stroke ( if the shaft is straight
front to rear that is the 12:00 o’clock to 6:00 o’clock position). Once the intermediate shaft is correctly in place,
the distributor can be installed.
Bring the #1 piston up to top dead center (T.D.C.) on the compression stroke. Remove the #1 plug and you can feel
pressure coming out of the plug hole on the compression stroke. Line-up the T.D.C. mark on the damper, with the
“0” mark on the timing tab, on the timing chain cover. See Figure #1
Install the distributor so that the rotor is lined with the small notch in the plate that covers the top of the
distributor base. See Figure #2
This mark will time the injectors to pulse close enough to get the engine started and run.
Proper final synching should be done with a dealer’s scan tool DRBIII or Snap-On Scanner. The information given
here is based on those scanners. Other scanners may not read exactly like the Snap-On. Setting the sync using an
ohm meter is not recommended or accurate.
Using a scanner, the idle is brought up to 1000 rpm, to reduce valve train fluctuations and the sync signal set to
zero. Most of our cams can use 3-5 units advance/positive. Note: This advance setting is only applicable when
using the Snap-On DRBIII Scanners. The units are not all the same on other scanners. If you do not have a scanner
that can do this, then pay to have the dealership do this. Some of the symptoms that the sync signal is incorrect,
you will get back firing through the intake manifold; vehicle will not idle or you will get major detonation at light
loads causing the vehicle to lose severe power over 3000 rpm.

 

I actually did! The very back sparkplug wire was slightly pushed off, still didn't change much. The distributor cap isn't cracked or damaged so I don't think it hit the firewall completely, I did make an attempt to hold the engine up with a jack and a block of wood.

 

Thank you! I'll report back

 

I've tried the volt meter method and it's not working. It just constantly gives me a reading of 5.03 no matter the position of the distributor

 

I also noticed that my harmonic balancer does not have a v6 mark. Only a V8 mark

 

Well I'm pulling the new flywheel because there is definitely something off here. I'll post pictures tomorrow or the following day showing the difference between the two flywheels. The reluctor wheel is way off on the new one. I just didn't know any better before installing it.

 

If you didn't remove the crank sensor before installing the transmission it probably got damaged.

 

I actually replaced the Crank sensor with a new Mopar one. Still ran terribly. It's definitely the flywheel. The reluctor ring was put on backwards or something. I've talked to someone at ams automotive, who manufacturered the flywheel, and they said the truck won't ever run right if the reluctor ring is off.

I took pictures to show the difference between the two