I’m looking at a 1992 First Gen V6, LE, RWD Long Bed, and I was hoping for any advice I can have.
specifically I’m looking at rust areas, and specifically how much rust on the Frame is too much.

I know that the idea is to hopefully have NO rust on the bed, but living in New England you don’t often have the choice.
my question is: when does rust affect the structural integrity of the truck? The truck I’m looking at right now is only $3500 too, so even if I go and spend $1500 on cleaning, and future proofing as best I can, I can see that being possible.
obviously if I see holes in the frame, that’s not good, but anything else to look out for? If it’s at someone’s house, and I can’t Jack it up, where should I look on the frame? Any specific areas?
the regular rust spots seem alright besides the Driver’s Rocker starting to go.

and, besides that any advice with the V6?

And, finally, this truck doesn’t have an adjustable steering column, is it possible to retrofit an adjustable one in there to give myself some more room?

 

The frame rail beside the gas tank is usually one of the worst spots. It tends to collect stuff, and hold it there......

 

Anywhere dirt builds up and doesn't get washed off easily will get rustier.
I don't like my MPG's 14-15 on my 94 3.9. I have tried to fix it and people with v8's post they get 23mpg on a regular basis??????? I have no idea how that might work but there ya go. Otherwise I had to fix the intake plenum for the infamous oil leak, the trans needed rebuilt and the AC had to be filled. I'd replace all sensors that can be replaced so that you know they are new and consider changing out all fuses for new ones too. Read the FAQ section for how to check codes by reading the check engine light flashes. If you get a 12 code before you drive it, drive it at least 10 miles and check for codes again when you stop. Disconnecting the battery is how you erase them and 12 means it has been disconnected recently. If you can take as long as several months waiting to find the best one you can. If you aren't in a rush you'll be happier with having waited to get a really good one. That is a lot of money to spend on something you may not be able to keep running for ten years.

 

Tap a hammer all around the frame. If it sounds solid and the hammer bounces back you’re good. If it crunches and a bunch of crap falls down run away as fast as you can. Also check the body mounts. You have at least three on each side. Front one is at the core support. Then at least two under the cab, three if you have an extended cab.

 

How many miles on it? I bought a '93 like what you're looking at and it never really gave me any trouble. The only major part I needed was a steering rack at 120,000 miles. Tilt steering was an option although you will have to replace the entire column. Here's a little tip, before you replace the column, pull the cover off the base of the steering wheel. When I bought mine, the parts guy told me to do that as early in the year, they had a shortage of regular columns and put tilt columns in some trucks but didn't put the adjustment stem on them. They just covered it with the cover. It's very unlikely you have one, but if it's a last build '92, you might get lucky. If you do swap columns, swap your key cylinder to the new column and you'll still have one key for the truck.

1992 was the introduction of the Magnum engines. My '93 had very few issues. Mostly just maintenance. As for rust, I'm on the edge of the rust belt and never had any problems with it. My paint didn't even fall off like earlier trucks. Like others have said, cab mounts and the frame near the gas tank on rust.

 

My '89 has rust holes right where the box meets the cab on the frame. Right where the frame curves upwards. That's where it's the worst. Mine used to be a farm truck in KY so it's been abused and the front of the frame must have scooped up plenty of dirt driving onto steep hills. It rusted from the inside out due to the actual SOIL I found in there. There must have been 5 handfuls of living moss I pulled out. Anyway it seems solid still. I watched a Youtube video of a guy that bought a way newer Nissan truck with a crack of rust going all the way down the frame on both sides and he beat the crap out of it (and himself) driving through a farm field, making it go airborne over and over again and there was no catastrophic "break". He even ran it into a tree and that's when the engine blew. So my train of thought is that truck frames were made of thicker steel back in the 80's/90's. I'm really 100% not worried about the rust holes in my frame, unless I had to haul something really heavy. I'd just put as much of the weight as I could over the rear axle.

If you buy the truck, a needle scaler with a rubber band and some Surface Shield should do the trick. You can't buy many decent trucks for 3500 these days! Old trucks can be money pits, you'll be nickeled and dimed by RockAuto for years to come. But that's nothing compared to newer trucks that still need repairs because they're all made in Mexico. The parts are all hundreds a piece too!

 

I wouldn't buy anything made in Mexico. It still kills me to say the Japanese still make the best automobiles...for the most part. Pick up trucks, the Toyota Tundra (V8) still beats out any other pickup truck for performance and durability. The Ford F-Series (V8) still does OK but after that it's slim pickins. But I'll tell you, I think the 100% naturally aspirated pickup trucks are on their way out. Everything is going electric, hybrid, or turbo. Such a shame. None of them will last much less be worth a damn for towing or hauling.

 

And Motor Trend just picked the Lightning as their Truck of the Year..... and then Ford stopped production because of 'battery issues'...... And while the Lightning IS a nice truck, MT quickly glossed over the fact that electric trucks are simply terrible at towing. Range tanks amazingly..... I read another article on a news site, where I guy wanted to haul a car 60 miles to a shop..... Even with a FULL charge at the outset, he almost didn't make it...... And then when MT took a Rivian up into the mountains..... they watched range go from 130 miles, to barely more than 30, with the truck just sitting for a couple days..... (and temps dropping like a stone.) Until we come up with some MUCH better battery chemistries, electrics just are NOT the answer.

 

None of those automobile publications hold any weight with me. It's who pays them the most that gets their praises. These contractors who need pickups to haul and tow are wary of what is available now. They're out there scooping up these used V8s because they know they wont be able to get a new one.