The general discussion forum suggested the tech forum might be a better place for this question.

These are the profiles of Steele Rubber Products universal if outer belt line mouldings. Mine need replacing on my ‘92. I haven’t taken the old ones off yet.
Anybody want to guess which size would be the best fit?
I’ll deal with the flange cover after I’ve got everything apart. Hoping for inspiration is the best I can come up with as far as that goes.

 

None of those Steel Rubber beltlines look right.This picture might help you https://catalog.prp.com/images/Websi...0_87_LGE-1.jpg That looks like the driver side.
I got mine from these guys https://www.prp.com/ I have a write up about the project on this site. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ndow-trim.html
They no longer make them because their equipment got damaged. i have emailed with them and if there is enough demand they will look into repairing the moulds and doing a new run. I also did the glass run channels with them as well. They do have the inner beltlines still. I just replaced my interior panels with new ones off RA which had the inner beltline attached.
I found this jims auto parts doing a search. I cannot see a picture of them to see if they are right.
https://www.jimsautoparts.com/truck_...rstripping.htm
And I found this. https://weatherstripdepot.com/collec...ripping?page=2

 

I’ve checked with Precision Rubber. That’s where I got the rest of the rubber for the doors. I’ve also checked other retailers hoping they have old stock. No luck. As near as I can tell there aren’t any left anywhere.

I’m hoping that someone has discovered another profile that fits close enough.
I had read somewhere else that the outer belt line mouldings from the rear doors on the Mega Cab fit but I can’t find the post again.

Here is the link to the Mega Cab outer beltline mouldings.
https://www.prp.com/product/detail/353715?SearchType=AGR&sort=u.Name&paginationCount= 24&year=2008&make=Dodge&model=Ram%202500&type=All

It’d be useful if catalogues had a cross section of the different profiles so we could compare. That would be helpful in finding a “good enough” profile.

 

There is no picture at that link for me. I looked it up and it sort of seems like the outer visible part might work. But if you look at the picture I linked in my last reply all that stuff below the strip you can see hooks over the door edge and screws into slots for it inside the door. If you look through my thread the window has to be dropped. I think there was 5 screws spaced evenly. The beltline itself is stiff with no flex to it.

Here is the part number from the parts manual in the FAQ

outer belt moulding 4260 134-5

Just found this https://aftermarket.supply/chrysler/4260134.html

 

I think our best hope is that any water that gets inside the door gets drained out the bottom so it doesn’t just sit there and rust. Would pay to make sure the drain holes are functional. Not sure of the rustability of the various guts of the door. Been awhile since I’ve done any surgery on my doors.

 

I just thought of doing your own flocking on the scraper yourself too. If that is the reason you want to change them. Mine were cracked on the outside hard plastic in a lot of places.
There are drains I don't remember exactly where. I think you can remove the vent looking thing on the width of the door below the latch if you want to put some Ospho rust converter in there. I have some in a spray bottle so I can hit stuff when I need to. It will stain cement white if you let it dry there. It goes away eventually.

 

Can the bottom of the door be accessed easily by removing the inner door panels? I suspect so but like I say it's been more than 10 years (probably 15-20) since I've had those panels off (to put in a speaker replacement).

 

Easy ? But you can get at it. I have hand crank windows. I was able to drop the glass and the crank and pout them back easily enough for it being my first time.