Edited in post #11, which is copied below the underlined text within this post.

New distributor, plugs, plug wires, camshaft & crankshaft position sensors, fuel filter, etc.,
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
54 No fuel sync (camshaft signal) detected during engine crank

Several months ago I replaced my camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. I bought the cheapest parts on Rockauto. It improved engine performance dramatically for a short period of time after which it became gradually worse.
I stopped at an O'Reilly today to pick up a hydraulic hose and was not able to start the truck when I came out. Turn the key, get a click, and that's it. I ordered a new camshaft position sensor and hoping it works. It's a standard and will be here at 3:30, was three times as much, and so I'm eager to try it in a few hours. The question is, if at any time during the last installation I accidentally turned the rotor slightly from what it was, or end up doing that this evening, and the truck will not start; Then can't I just "play" with it turning it this way and that slightly until it starts? I ain't got the tools needed to read its position.

Thanks in advance. Will update.

Current progress:

I finished replacing my Cam and Crank Pos Sensors with better quality parts, and disconnected the neg bat post to reset the codes because the truck would still not start. (Thought it might be due to a failsafe for the codes I had).

Someone suggested it could be an ignition issue. I get plenty of crank, then just a click a time or two, then more crank, etc., when trying to start the truck. I seem to be hearing a whirring noise at the end of the crank, but I could just be thinking too much. And I've never had to do ignition work in any of my vehicles, so I don't really know what to look for. Assuming the starter is good (O'Reilly tested it more than once recently and it was good), what should I look for next? I'm getting no codes right now, but I did just reset them.

I'm going to play with trying to start it with the steering wheel in different vertical positions and see if anything happens.

Thanks in advance!

 

You shouldn't need to loosen the distributor at all, and you certainly shouldn't be able to turn the rotor just changing that sensor.

 

Perfect, thank You!

 

Started right up once I got back to O'Reilly's. (Always seems to work after a nice cooling off period). Then when I was on my road it crawled to a stall. I am not sure if that should really happen for a faulty Cam Pos Sens, but I swapped for the new one anyway and it still wouldn't start.
I neglected to mention my Crank Pos Sens is also the cheapest one on Rockauto, so I'll pick up one tomorrow and see if that helps.
Open to suggestions. (Please help!)

Additional info: I've checked four or five of the grounds, and scratched the body real good several months ago. I've replaced the battery and alternator, and had the starter tested more than once.
Jiggling the wiring harness has worked before, but I cannot tell if that itself is a separate issue. It has not worked today.

At a loss right now. I just pulled up after going to Walmart to an officer fixing to tow it because it was just a hair on this old country road where nobody but anybody I know even travel, but she let me push it off and said the law won't bother me where it's at now. Of course my only other running vehicle ('09 Fusion literally died earlier just idle; battery went dead though both battery and alternator are good) ... my only other running vehicle is a '20 pacifica and that thing ain't got no metal underneath to hook a chain. The whole underside is felt, so I couldn't tow it myself. Hmm...

 

Read thru the FAQ page. You may recognize some stuff and it will help you later.
I got away with the good quality Napa Crank Sensor for years. But word is on this forum you want to get a Mopar one. I forget how expensive but it's up there near $100 and I had to order it from the dealer. So if you can find a verified Mopar sensor for cheaper go that way.

 

After reading your post I zeroed in on the "I turn the key, get a click and that's it". So you are saying the starter is not even turning the engine over? If that is the case then the crank or cam sensors have nothing to do with that.

Since you have had the battery and alternator replaced as well as testing the starter I would be checking the ignition switch next.

Now if the engine is cranking over and just not starting (code 11 definitely related to this) then ignore everything I just said, lol.

 

Thank You. It usually cranks, but sometimes it won't. I think it's a failsafe when the computer doesn't measure the position of the shafts. But I went and got a better crankshaft position sensor. I'll swap them and get back with Y'all. If it doesn't run after this then I'll be back at square one.
The new camshaft position sensor didn't solve the issue. I'll be working in the dark after work today or tomorrow. Hopefully I can go in with a long extension from the top but last time I ended up removing the fenderwell to access the crank pos sens.
Happy Thanksgiving friend.

 

I have a set of Harbor Freight hex wrenches that extend from a socket drive about 8 inches and use another extension to get at them from the top. The issue with putting them back I was able to start the lower bolt by hand and used a dab of grease in the hex hole to get it to stick to the wrench to get the top one started. I had to use something else in my left hand to get the sensor to sit in the right place

 

This is very encouraging. My truck's lifted and parked in wet ground. I was contemplating jacking it with a bottle jack on a 6x6 and using a comealong around an oak branch above it as a safety net in case the jack fails or slips lol. So obviously I prefer Your method lol.

 

I can get to both of the crank sensor bolts with a long 1/4 drive extension and allen socket. I then use the 3/8-1/4 adapter to use a 3/8 ratchet.

My truck is stock height but even it was lifted I would just get something to stand on and still be able to get it with 1/4 drive stuff. I can change the sensor in about 2 or 3 minutes.