There is no return line..... Regulator is down at the tank.

So, take the valve core OUT. Put the gauge on there, cycle the key a couple times. If it still shows zero pressure, bad pump.

 

Took the valve core out and the needle on the gauge never budged. I owe You one.
Before I buy a new fuel pump (and cut a hole in the bed of my truck lol) might there be any electrical reason the FP is not being engaged? I hear it prime when turning the key to the ON position. I have not ever smelled gasoline from the fuel tank.

But I did have power loss, rough idling, hesitation when accelerating, and I never got it over 80MPH lol. Really excited, hoping this is the issue. I'm going to do my best reading some electrical diagrams and try diagnosing everything. As far as I know (I never had much experience w/ electrical and it's been years since I was in class) the relays, fuses are all good. The grounds and wires are good.

Very excited. This problem has stumped me and my mechanic for a long time because it would start in cold weather, then would act up after turning off. It would require cooling completely down (overnight) before it would start again. It only got to this point the other day where it doesn't want to run at all.

Have a good night, thank You very much. Can't wait to see how fast this thing can go when it's actually getting gas lol.

 

No need to put a hole in your bed. Lift one side to get to the tank. It’s not hard. Ask if/when you get to that point.

 

If the pump primes when you first turn the key on, then electrically, it's fine. If the pump runs while the engine is cranking, but you still have no pressure, that's a bad pump, or a blown line inside the pump module. Replace it. Use denso, or delphi pumps only. Unless, of course, you ENJOY changing fuel pumps.

You could also jumper the pump relay, with the gauge on there, and see if you ever get any pressure......

 

I replaced the fuel pump (there's one small problem) and I have much better performance. I am actually pretty excited, and I thank Y'all for all Y'all's generosity in helping me fix this issue. I wish I could match it because it is my family who benefits most from it. <3
That said, I now realize the reason my mechanic and I were both a little confused at the development of these issues. While I am getting better performance and certainly no hesitation starting when the truck does start, I have had one or two occasions since replacing the pump where the truck just didn't want to start. It took turning the key two or three times in order to start, and it did start. So, I am thinking it must be an ignition fault somewhere. The battery, alternator, fuel pump, camshaft position sensor (distributor pickup coil), crankshaft position sensor, plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap, etc., are all brand spanking new. I ain't checked every fuse, but I've checked a lot. Also my codes are gone for now. I tested my ignition coil and it is good. I have not tested anything else.

 

Does it crank, but not fire, or does it not even crank?

 

And another question… is there any noise when you turn the key or is it dead silent?

 

When turning the key it will click once each time I turn the key for maybe 1-3 times, then it will not make any noise when turning the key for a couple times and then fire up.
The bad fuel pump was complicating my issues because it'd also crank but not fire. So far every time it cranks now it also fires up so I'm glad that's out of the way.

 

If you decide to replace the ignition switch look at the wiring while the column is open and maybe just case the wires from the firewall to the starter to see if there is a short.
I have an issue in cold weather when I just put the key in and turn it over the starter doesn't fully engage and you can hear the gear spin. But if I turn the key on and wait ten seconds that never happens. I purchased a new starter off RA when it was on close out (rebuilt Denso) but I expect when I finally decide to climb under there I will find wires that are cracked or have bad connections.

 

That's an odd one. I've replaced a few starters (on other vehicles) in my day and now I just replaced the starter on my truck a month ago. Have to say the symptom on my Dakota starter was unlike anything I had experienced before in other vehicles that were actually quite consistent. With my Dakota starter, it was pretty random the last few years. It almost always started as normal but once in a great while it would check up after the initial crank. From there, it would take another 1, 2, sometimes 3 more tries before it would fire up. Well, the frequency of fail began increasing to the point where something needed to happen. Figured maybe there was a dead spot on that starter so I swapped it out and that took care of the problem. It was the original starter.

It's not the funnest of jobs I will tell you. I accessed it from underneath with a pillow under my head to keep my neck from snapping off. That starter (I have a 5.2L) is buried. Working pretty much blind on the top bolt. Only tool I could get on it was a shorter 5/8" box wrench. And then it was only a 25 degree turn each time. Eventually I could work a couple fingers up there and loosen by hand. Then they put this goofy clamp around that top bolt that secures the tranny coolant hoses in place. A bit tricky to get that starter back in and get that clamp situated correctly. As it was, there is next to no room to wiggle that starter in and out of its domain. Just not a fun job. To make matters worse, the brand new Denso I put in was a lemon. Had to replace it with a brand new Remy (that was really a rebranded Denso). So I got to do it twice (plus another time when I pulled it a few months back to clean the contacts. Good time to replace the batt-to-starter cable so you don't have to go thru those gymnastics again.