Okay just to clarify now...

If I went with the 318 I *could* keep the AX behind it, get a 96 PCM and v8 manual harness which would let me put in more stuff than rockers as I can tune the engine.

If I went with the 360, I would ideally need an NV3500, the flywheel and PCM off of a 5.9 manual, and of course the harness. But due to the compatibility almost everything will cross over between the two engines, just the 360 will scale more with power adders?

In terms of both engines, with a cam are you able to run rockers and a cam? I think I've read that 1.7 ratio rockers with a cam is too much lift but what about 1.6?

 

Max lift on stock heads is .480, for both engines. With the stock cam, you can run 1.7's, and you pick up about 10hp/tq. Less with the 5.2. If you are going to change the cam, just go with a better cam, and stick with the 1.6 ratio rockers. (though, getting full rollers certainly wouldn't be a bad plan....) *Just* changing the rockers gives you more lift, and slightly more duration at .050 lift. Essentially, it's installing a bigger cam, without having to change the cam.

 

Okay that makes sense, while I have you in this forum I'll ask the same questions I asked on my older form back in December that I thought died because I stopped getting the emails lol.

How do you think this part list looks?

Odessa Monster Heads, mild cam, 1.6 sharps, some sort of intake manifold if I get the newer PCM as I can tune it, headers. Then of course the rebuild parts I would need, like a reman crank, etc. Speaking of which, what brands would you recommend for a good quality but not stupid expensive kit?

I am curious if there is a power difference if anyone is aware of between running a Y pipe into a 3 inch all the way back vs like a 2.5 inch x pipe into dual exit.

 

Would those be the 2.02 heads? Keep in mind, for a truck motor, you are more interested in low-end torque, assuming you want to do 'truck stuff' with your truck. Otherwise, the monster magnums are decent heads. Watch what the valves are made of, vs what they want for valve guide material..... they tend to not pay close enough attention to that.

Might consider getting bare heads, then getting valves and springs separate, so that your springs match what the cam wants.

The only aftermarket intake currently available, is the Hughes Air Gap. 600 and some odd bucks last I looked... Likely more now..... Mopar stopped making the M1 series of manifolds some time ago, so finding one is pretty much miraculous. You would have to get REAL lucky to find one.

So far as I know, there are NO long-tube headers available for the dakotas any more. But, even some decent shorties will be better than the stock manifolds. Fat pipes on a Y going to a three inch single pipe will be more than adequate to the task, and the larger pipe gives it a nice deep tone. If there is a power difference between single 3", and dual 2.5's, I have yet to see it on a dyno chart.

Guessing your truck is 2wd?? That makes things a bit easier.

Then you get to decide how you go about tuning it... Paying someone else to do it via email, taking it somewhere that can do dyno tuning, or buying the software, and tuning it yourself. (STEEP learning curve on that last one.) Or, a combination thereof. If you have the money, I would be tempted to have it dyno tuned, and then buy the software, and do some final tweaking yourself.

 

Yeah I've looked at long tubes and they don't seem to be a good fit in the Dakotas, especially the 4x4 which is what mine is. It's actually a standard cab long bed 4x4 too hence why I'm not gonna throw a 440 or something goofy into it, just looking for something that sounds good and won't break a sweat hauling 1000 pounds.

The Odessa site says those heads are good for up to .600 lift, but you mentioned low end torque, would I be losing that with those heads?

 

The bigger valves will lose you some bottom end torque, as will the aftermarket manifold. Headers and a good exhaust, and the roller rockers will get you some back, as will the better flow characteristics of the heads. (everything is a compromise......) Keep in mind though, you are going to start out with a LOT more low-end torque than the six would ever consider putting out. With a manual trans, I really don't see any issues.

No 440? Oh come on, you KNOW you WANT to. Have to do some pretty significant sheetmetal re-arranging for it to fit though.

Towing 1000 lbs? Build it right, and you won't even notice it's there.

 

Oh how I would love to have an engine that would shear the bolts off my driveshaft lol. I plan to put a 440 in something eventually, but for what I bought the truck for I think a SBM will do just fine xD. With the v6 hauling 1000 pounds in the bed I can tell its there, both when accelerating and stopping. Granted I think when I get a v8 and get better front brakes it will cancel out.

So you're saying the 2.02 valves are too big for keeping the bottom end? Looking at RockAuto it seems like the stock valves are 1.920"? Odessa does sell a bare recast head that's stronger than stock so I'm guessing that's the direction you're pointing me in. Hopefully I can find an NV to get because I'm leaning toward the 360 now. The NV I found on Facebook is in Pennsylvania somewhere and it's about 3 hours from home but being at school its about 6 hours from me lol.

Any good engine rebuild kits? Or are really any of them good?

 

Isn't there a version of the monster magnums with the 1.92 valves?? I though there was... Best of both worlds. Better heads, better flow, and less prone to cracking around the valve seats.

 

I'll take a look again, might've missed that. Appreciate the input too! Hopefully I remember to post my progress on the site, might get more good pointers.

 

Start a build thread. Everyone loves those. Gotsta have pics though. That's a REQUIREMENT.