Yeah that was my plan, just was curious if there was any input for something I could be missing. I've been watching a lot of Uncle Tony's Garage about carbs as this is the first thing short of single piston engines I've ever messed with with a carb. I also edited my last post as I noticed you edited yours as I was responding and I think you responded to me when I was editing lol so not sure if you saw my edit. Was about your question of idle mixture.

 

Any engine will respond well to improving air flow. After all, what is the engine but a giant air pump?

A carb spacer works because you have wet flow, theoretically, a throttle body spacer should have the same effect, where it doesn't do diddly is on port fuel injected engine, as they are 'dry flow', and you just don't need to worry about keeping the fuel in suspension.

I am just the opposite. I can figger out what is going on with a fuel injected V-8, (or any other number of cylinders 4 or greater....) but, the one lung carbed fellers? They kick my *** regularly. And lets not even talk about 2 cycle engines...... the carbs on those are black magic so far as I am concerned.

 

So I put in 68s. Well #68s I think they’re actually 0.069”, but same difference. Turns out my carb actually had #71s which are 0.076”, so big jump in size. I did notice by the seat of my pants it was a little peppier, I haven’t checked the plugs because of the rain annihilating the east coast right now but I have been driving it around, no pinging that I can hear.

I was curious though, I’m pretty sure? My distributor is an HEI GM style, so how easy/expensive would it be to put in a rev limiter? Got a little carried away in the rain and went up to about 5800rpm or so before I noticed the rpm (the tires drowned out the engine noise surprisingly), and it got me thinking I want a limiter just for insurance. I know google is a thing but I’m not entirely sure if this is GM style.

this is the link to the distributor I bought (93 ragtop sent me this way):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355480947561

 

Coil in cap? There is this guy, but, not exactly cheap.....

 

Yeah coil in the cap. I stumbled across that it’s on the list, just not an ideal price. It is cheaper than a new engine though lol

 

Could always try just keeping your toenails out of the radiator?

 

Okayyy to be fairrrrrrr my tach is mounted to my visor and I don’t have heat or ac so it was foggy in my cab lol so I couldn’t see it. But it’s more for the insurance factor like I said. In case someone else drives it and doesn’t pay attention. I’m not really sure how much these engines can rev and I don’t want to find out lol. I know there’s a point where power drops off a lot, even with the cam and intake I have, but then there’s the actual limit of the valve train.

 

I think the redline is like 5500.... but, that's not about power, that's about not tossing various expensive engine parts thru the side of the block. With an unloaded truck, spinning the rears is WAY to easy, especially if it isn't a high traction surface to begin with... (or a wet, or icy one, for that matter....) Yep, been there, done that.... Getting stuck in the snow is always fun too. In my 96, 4x4, I was truly unimpressed when I got stuck on a flat driveway... ONE tire off the edge in the snow, the other three still on the driveway, but, still coming off from and ice storm.... I could spin three wheels and not move an inch. Annoying? Yep, you bet. The guy that lived there came out with a coffee can of cat litter, sprinkled some liberally under the three spinners, and easing into the gas VERY gently, the truck backed right out. I now keep some IN the truck.

 

Oh yeah my experience with low traction hasn’t been fun either. My NP231? Is all but useless in anything other than 2H (it makes awful grinding sounds in 4x4) to the point where I actually disconnected the front drive shaft (I haven’t routed the vacuum line for the front axle disconnect so it was spinning the t case making an awful sound).

My friend borrowed the truck last year to bring home a table. This was still with the v6 but still, v6, open diff, 235mm tires. He had to go up a sloped gravel driveway and he said he had to give it a run because it would just start spinning the tire. When I have the funds and the time to do a drivetrain refresh I plan to rebuild the axles and the t case (or replace). I do have the benefit of a 8.75 rear, but with it being an open diff it’s kind of stupid. LSD and a debate between 3.55 or 3.90 gears coming soon to a dodge forum near you.

 

May be attempting to revive this thread because it’s been awhile but I just changed my jets again from 68s to 66s and now for some reason it seems like it’s running even more rich. I can see dark smoke coming out of the tailpipe on off-idle and the smell from the tailpipe burns my nose. I did switch the vac advance from the ported port to manifold vacuum and it feels peppier so that at least tells me it’s running better than it was (I was getting 6mpg, down from 10). I haven’t driven enough to calculate mpg since I switched it but I’m still kind of baffled.

Current specs are:
#66 primary jets
#74? secondaries (haven’t been touched)
13 degrees initial
vac advance on manifold vac
Idle mix needs to be played with but I wouldn’t think that would cause it to run rich in general