So I put a rebuilt engine in my 95 4x4 with the 5.2. I put the oil pan on with the engine on the engine stand. You would think sealing the oil pan was a no-brainer, but no the rear lip leaked, dropped the pan and tore the gasket getting it off. Got a new gasket installed it and was careful to make sure gasket didn't move on reinstallation, used a bore scope to look inside looked ok, used a small mirror to look at the outside of the rear lip, looked good, let it set up overnight started it up, let it run for about 1/2 hour and sure as **** it's leaking again. I will tear it back down in the morning and see what the heck is going on. Anybody have any secrets to sealing the friggin oil pan. I need to get this off my lift, got other stuff to work on.

 

Is it the pan, or the rear main seal?

 

As far as I can tell it's the rear lip seal. I don't see anything coming from the rear main seal, but I could be wrong, can't really see anything coming from above the pan.

 

But some dye in the oil, run the engine for a bit, then have a look with a UV light, and the funky glasses.

 

Replaced the main seal this weekend and still have a small drip. I will get some dye to put in the oil and see what shows up. It's a pain because I can't drive it unless I put the front diff back in, that adds a couple hours of time to put the diff back in and a couple hours to get back out if need it still leaks. I don't think its a good idea to drive it without the stub axles in it, probably hard on the bearings. Oh well, tomorrow is another day in paradise.

 

Definitely do NOT drive it without the stubs in place. Those are what holds the bearings together. You would run the serious risk of the front tires deciding to leave the vehicle entirely. Way too exciting for my tastes.

 

Yea, I figured as much. Don't need that excitement at my age, I'm 74. maybe to old to be working so hard.

 

Does anyone know of a different seal that's a little thicker? taller? that would fit the groove and fit tighter to the crank? Maybe something from a later model dodge engine or even a different brand. I know the early chevy small blocks had a two piece seal, but I don't know what the crank journal size is.

 

I usually use a very thin seal along problem gaskets. However, I use a little mote on the corners where there is a sharp divide. Just like the intake, I put a little extra dab on intakes where the cross gasket meets the heads and that little Vee can sometimes leak. I do the same on the oil pan. Such as at the rear seal, there is that little Vee where the rear main meets the block. A little dab to fill it can usually preempt problems

 

Also make sure the pan rails are FLAT. Folks tend to over-torque the bolts, and it distorts the pan.. and if you don't hammer them down, you will NEVER get it to properly seal.