My brain is still in cheap mode. I ordered one on Hollander parts for $90 delivered. The vehicle it comes from is a 94 dak & supposed to have 135K miles. You can trust auto recyclers from Illinois right? :-) Still have not heard from the places I emailed and it is almost 10am back there.

Edit- I heard from them later in the day. The first one didn't even answer my question, their site would no go back past 96 so I asked about a 94. They sent a link to the same search page I has used that made me email them.
the guy Ed used said what he told Ed, $150 to diagnose and repair.

 

The new to me computer arrived about 45 minutes ago. It started and ran but it still acts like it is missing or something I think seems like missing.
I will start over again in the morning. I guess testing the new plug wires is next.

 

Good Morning.
First thing, I removed the new coil to test it. The test at this vid at the bottom of post with multi meter. I will clean the IAC and maybe put the old cleaned up EGR on and clean the one that is on there for the next time. I may removed the TB to look inside and clean it as well.
The primary coil test with meter set at 20k ohms (HF multimeter) I get 005. When I do the secondary test the result is intermittent. I'm not sure if I am not making good enough contact or it's actually intermittent since the probes are pins and the harness plug contacts are pins. The primary test is also hard to get a reading. I have it sitting on a table and it moves when I try to press harder. When the secondary test registers it is 14k plus. The multi meter is good. I'm not sure of myself here. Is there another way to test it? I bought the "premium" SMP Blue Streak coil on RA.
I have the fuel pressure tester on it to see if it leaks down. It was at 36lbs when I came in.

 

I tested the coil with it in the vice same result. Not sure if it is making contact with the probes or if it is in fact defective. Removed the TB and the sensors on it. Cleaned them and put it back together. Needle nose locking pliers help with the getting throttle cable back on. Pull it all the way out of the housing then lock them on the cable lightly next to the housing. Rotate the throttle mechanism to fully open and hold. Put the **** in the slot and then set the rest of the cable in its groove.
Fuel pressure went down to 32 in 35 minutes and after an hour 20 was at 31. So I'm calling that good and took it off.
Picture of the TB before cleaning. It is new about ten years first time off since installed. Th Odo is at 173. Oh yea I also changed the oil and filter when I did the plugs wires cap rotor and coil.


Edit added pics- . IDK how the rotor works w/o the metal extending to the center. The center of the cap looks like it arced. The cap rotor wires and plugs are new in the last couple months.

 

I decided to go get a cap rotor and coil. Only got the cap and rotor. There is a story there. I will not be using Napa around here any longer. I would like to claim I knew the tang was broken beforehand but I didn't, until I looked at the one in the store. I know every other rotor I ever installed had one but I never paid attention when I installed it so??? The guy joked it was Bluetooth.
Got home put it together with the coil I have and it runs right.
Lesson- Always check the last thing you did, before doing something costly.
The tang from the rotor was sitting on the pickup coil when I looked for it.

 

WOW the tab on the rotor broke! When you put the cap on make sure nothing gets under it. If so it will offset the cap. Also stay away from aluminum inserts like this one. Ask for "oem stye" at the parts store. They should give you one with brass inserts(last a lot longer).

 

That was a RA kit, cap, rotor, wires $33 and change. The Napa cap and rotor was $35 and change.

 

I pay more than 35 bucks, just for wires...... Don't cheap out on ignition parts.

 

I am astounded that it ran at all. It just made no sense to think of the new tune up parts and a coil as a possible source of the issue.

 

RA has two kit's, The one you got is the $27 one that says it has aluminum inserts. The other one clearly says "Comes complete with a United-Packard wire set, premium brass cap & rotor(s), dielectric grease, wire separators, and cylinder # ID tags". Get a good cap/rotor and maybe upgrade to decent 8mm wires.