I bought a Dakota Sport in February 1993. They were unloading two, a black and a red one. I bought the red one. They told me at that time that if it had a problem under warranty, they would convert it to R-134. I think the truck had 7 miles on it and I used it until it had about 120K on the clock. Except for a steering rack, which corrected the pull to the right the truck had when I bought it, it only needed routine maintenance.

 

I believe the PAG oil is ester. There are different weights like motor oil. I think you want PAG 100 but I haven't done enough of them to be sure.

 

I just did a search on conversion kits, it was not confidence building. They seem to be just 3 parts that change from one size pipe fitting to another. I suppose if you can evacuate the system fully and it pulls a vacuum with no leaks (45min) just doing that should be OK. I did find an Advanced Auto parts page that describes the process. The point I noted was that you should use PAG or Ester oil. They recommend Ester oil since it will mix with any mineral oil residue and still lubricate the system properly.

 

Keep in mind, R-134 has been standard for 30 years or so. The kits that were complete and easy have pretty well gone out of production. It's like an "Electric Hand" shifter. You can still work on them but they haven't been used in many years. I've got a 1989 Olds that the a/c may or may not work. I've never tried it. I'm trying to decide if I fix it to convert to R-134 or refill it with R-12. I stocked up when it was going out of production. I have gauges for both refrigerants.

 

I saw lots of R12 to R134 conversion kits on Ebay. It's confusing because they all look different.

 

You want to new oil, ester or PAG, I'm not certain, along with the fittings and a flush kit.

Here's the flush;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256910962318

Here's the fittings;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30631743472...Bk9SR7ivs_OSZg

If you're replacing damaged lines, replace the receiver/dryer too as it only hold a little moisture. Once you replace and flush the system parts, pump it down and add a shot of UV leak detector then charge the system. If you have any leaks, the dye will show up. One caveat, the R-134 is less efficient so it might not be quite as cold when you're done.

 

Bookmarked! Thanks for the leads. My rack n pinion is leaking so I'm going to address that first before the AC. I'm putting some dye in the power steering reservoir later today before I run out to Home Away From Home Depot. I'll take a look at it under the black light tomorrow assuming my light still works. I thought I knew where the leak was but now I'm not sure. The dye ought to tell me something. Even if it is a leak there isn't much I can do about it other than tighten a loosened fitting or something. The Lucas stop leak isn't working. A replacement is looking likely.

I dropped a new thread on this topic but got no replies. I've since looked at it and I think I'm preferring buying new vs rebuilt. Not a big price difference and truthfully rebuilds scare me sometimes...especially Cardone.

 

My '93 Dakota Sport had a slight pull to the right from day one. At around 95K it started leaking inside. It had to build up a lot to leak out from the seals. It was a fairly easy replacement and after alignment, no more pull. I'd had it aligned several times trying to track the pull down, but the new rack cured it. Unhooking the lines even drained all the old fluid. I even got an extra mile or two per gallon.

 

Hell, the gas savings pays for the rack. My biggest concern with doing the job myself (other than I'm old, can't see, shaky hands, and charlie horses whenever I contort) is my rack is secured to the intermediate shaft via a roll pin. One, getting to it will be hard. Two, that roll pin might have become one with the truck. Three, figuring out how to get it out (tap out or press out). Four, getting the holes in the intermediate shaft and new rack lined up ought to be fun. I wouldn't think twice of doing it myself if I had a car lift and could stand up but I don't and can't. I'm leaning to hiring someone. I'll buy the rack. I already have the bushings. Bought those from Energy Suspension years ago. Gee, do I have to tie up the steering wheel for this job? I think I do.

 

If it has an air bag, yes. I don't remember if my '93 had one but I think in '94 they did. I replaced mine and I don't remember it being too bad. Then again, we're talking 15-20 years ago. If I remember correctly, there was just a pinch bolt holding the steering column to the rack. A couple of hydraulic lines, the tie rod ends and two big honkin' bolts on the main mount. I've had back issues for years but I don't remember it being that bad to do.