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Ticking/Tapping with Harland Sharp Rockers

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Old Dec 24, 2025 | 06:10 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Ok, so, do your base adjustment, (engine off.) Once you have 'em all set, start the engine. (this may be messy, depending on your oil pressure, pay attention to where excess oil is going, you don't want to start a fire, that'd be bad.....) Then, one rocker at a time, loosen it up until it starts making noise, (if it isn't already.....) then, slowly turn the adjuster in, until it stops, give it another turn or so, and move on to the next one. When you are done, it *should* be quiet.
Yeah I’ve heard of doing that, but that would only be for stud mounted rockers I’d imagine because the pedestal mount adjusters would be moving with the rockers
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 01:43 AM
  #122  
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I have now gotten the new stud mounted rockers in, as well as studs and guide plates. When I’m torquing the studs down, do I follow the pedestal rocker arm torque spec of 21-25 foot pounds? And do I need loctite as well?

I did not have any instructions included with the parts. It’s a comp set of studs for a 302 ford, but it’s 5/16-18 to 3/8 adapters
 

Last edited by joshmanhoff; Jan 7, 2026 at 01:47 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 09:00 AM
  #123  
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Why don't you just buy the parts for your specific vehicle?!!!! You keep trying to use mix and match and any advice given by many people. Granted, some of that advice is good but other is not and you are confusing yourself and all involved. Now you want people to tell you how to put parts designed for a Ford in your Dodge WITH adapters and make it right. Comp is one of the best companies out there and will help you with any problem, IF you are using the right parts. For all the money you have spent trying to patch this together I would have thought you know it is time to buy the right parts from one company and be able to use THEIR expert advice to make it work but no. Sorry, but I am done here.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 09:38 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by rickf1985
Why don't you just buy the parts for your specific vehicle?!!!! You keep trying to use mix and match and any advice given by many people. Granted, some of that advice is good but other is not and you are confusing yourself and all involved. Now you want people to tell you how to put parts designed for a Ford in your Dodge WITH adapters and make it right. Comp is one of the best companies out there and will help you with any problem, IF you are using the right parts. For all the money you have spent trying to patch this together I would have thought you know it is time to buy the right parts from one company and be able to use THEIR expert advice to make it work but no. Sorry, but I am done here.
The kit that I bought from hipotek included the ford studs, my bad I forgot to mention that. It was a kit with the rollers, guide plates for a magnum, and the studs are for a 302
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 10:20 AM
  #125  
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They also used chevy screw-in studs in some applications...... (maybe not your particular manufacturer.... but, I've seen kits with narrow-body roller rockers for chevy small block used as well.)

I would be tempted to use some lok-tite blue on the studs...... but, torque spec? No idea.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 02:09 PM
  #126  
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I put the part number (COMP 4504-16) into google and added instructions, and then torque spec, and its a very large range. Anywhere from 13 foot pounds oiled to 34 foot pounds.

From a Mustang thread:
"Someone on Amazon asked about torqueing these rocker arm studs and the answer was 50 ft-lbs for aluminum heads and 55 ft-lbs for cast iron. This seemed way to high for a 5/16" stud.

I learned the Comp Cam rocker arm studs are made by ARP. According to their specs, torque on a 5/16" should be between 24-30 ft-lbs.

Finally was able to talk with a Comp Cams Tech Support Person. He confirmed their rocker arm studs are made by ARP. He also suggested the torque be 30-35 ft-lbs based on his experience, not actual recommended torque value for the specific product.

So, 4 different sources, 4 different torque specs for the same item (not to mention the various forums I asked for help on). This has been total BS!

I'm going with the recommendation from Comp Cams of 30-35 ft-lbs. I just hope the Tech Support Person knows what he's talking about."

Given its a 5/16 thread, I'm probably going to aim around 25-30 with threadlocker, unless you guys think different.
 

Last edited by joshmanhoff; Jan 7, 2026 at 02:10 PM. Reason: added part number
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 02:57 PM
  #127  
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Here is a torque spec chart for various size bolts. For grade 8 studs, they are sayin' 18 to 20 ft.lbs...... Hhhmmmm......
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 03:03 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Here is a torque spec chart for various size bolts. For grade 8 studs, they are sayin' 18 to 20 ft.lbs...... Hhhmmmm......
A never ending suffering of finding the right torque spec lol. I could do 21 because that’s factory, but what if that’s too loose. Although it would be thread locked.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by joshmanhoff
A never ending suffering of finding the right torque spec lol. I could do 21 because that’s factory, but what if that’s too loose. Although it would be thread locked.
I would be afraid of breaking them off in the head going too much tighter. Go with the 21, and lok-tite...... see how it goes.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 09:15 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
I would be afraid of breaking them off in the head going too much tighter. Go with the 21, and lok-tite...... see how it goes.
I ended up going with 28 with thread locker, got the rockers all put in and started it up. The ticking is still there, but it has a much different tone. I drove it around and got it nice and hot and I’m going to let it sit overnight, then tomorrow I’m going to start it and let it warm up and then set lash while it’s running.

Though the ticking is still there, the difference in sound is very promising.
 
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