Yeah, factory rockers have been put back on temporarily, and I have also looked down the pushrod channels and can see a gap between the rod and the heads, and it’s a good distance.

I am going to put shims in though under the pedestal studs. My buddies uncle told me about shimming to adjust the geometry a little more, to account for a different valve stem height. I also looked at the diagrams between the Hughes 5007 and the Hughes 5006S lifters, and the 5006S are about .027” taller from the roller tip to the pushrod cup so my preload has also gone up. It’s possible that that’s the reason the clicking is still there, because my pushrods are now too long for the different lifters.

Waiting on the shims to come in, then I’m going to measure my preload for each rocker. Going to tighten them by hand, then count the turns to torque spec and shim accordingly. Also going to do a sharpie on the valve tips and see where exactly the wear marks are

 

I read through this entire post and I have not seen anyone suggest calling the cam company or rocker company. A lot of problems have been solved by the people that actually made the parts. It sounds to me like a cam of lifter issue and more cam since you had the problem before and after a lifter change. Call Hughs and ask them.

 

Yeah that’s my next step, I wanted to verify that these lifters are supposed to have .120-140 preload. Of course they’re closed on Wednesday though so have to wait until tomorrow

 

So potentially some progress in the right direction?

I had my old 6.936” pushrods laying around, and I put them in which would provide me with around .100 preload. The ticking is still there, though seemingly quieter at least in the cab.

I did count the turns for each rocker, and it fluctuated a bit between valves. Anywhere from 1.25 to 2 turns. I did also get this wear pattern using a sharpie.



Im curious though, if the amount of turns to 21 foot pounds from zero lash on each rocker is inconsistent, is this what adjustable rockers would help with?

 

Adjustable rockers make getting a quiet valve train easy..... The lifter will have some tolerance for variations in the heads, etc... It looks like your heads are milled adequately for screw-in studs though...... which would allow for adjustable rockers....

 

So on Harland’s site there are 2 part numbers for 1.6 rollers for magnums. There’s a S70036 and an S70036A (A for adjustable). There’s very limited images of them, but I would imagine they’re all pedestal mount, just one has the adjustment screw and one doesn’t?

And I’m also assuming that I’ll need longer pushrods than where I am right now (conveniently I have the 7.000” ones) so I can get the adjuster in the middle at zero lash.

 

Pushrod length becomes a lot less of an issue with adjustable rockers. If they are the set screw/locknut style, them fellers gave a WIDE range of adjustment.

I have also see folks use narrow body GM rockers on studs as well.

 

Theres seemingly 2 options that I can go with, I can either do a stud conversion with guide plates and 3/8 poly locks, or I can get the pedestal mount with the lock nut/allen key in the middle. The latter is about $150 more expensive though, not really sure what the benefits comparing the two would be on a mild build.

 

How are the first ones adjusted? Just the nut on the pivot?

 

Yeah it’s a poly lock I’m assuming, and it’s just on the stud itself