The truck has run fine until the other day when it just started bucking and stalling. Pulled the air filter and looked down the carb. Only one jet was squirting gas. The other side (drivers side) did nothing until I opened the throttle a little and then it spit a little gas. Checked with a Dodge mechnaic down at the local shop and he said check the ohms on the throttle body injectors. Did that and they are 1.4 each, apparently just fine. Today I did a complete tune up. New gas filter, roter, dist cap, plugs and air filter. Couldn't get wires so didn't replace them, but will. Took it for a test drive and it ran like a new car for about 20 minutes then back to the same ol' same ol'. Seems to be running on 3 cylinders most of the time. If I floor the throttle, it does fair but even at high speed on the freeway it cuts out and jerks. Seems like no gas or spark is getting to the plug or cylinder. Any clues where to look next?

 

I had a similar problem a couple months back. I found out it was my timing chain was stretched out. This may not be your problem. Is your check engine light coming on for any of this. It almost sounds to me like your throttle sensor is going bad. But I would think that would set a code. It could be a weak ignition coil also.

Normally if you take the belt off, and grab the damper on the crankshaft. You can rock it back and fourth and feel if there is alot of play in the timing chain. But the best way it to pull the cover and check it that way.

If your check engine light does come on, you can get codes by taking the key and turning it to on. (not start) Roll it from on-off-on-off-on. The check engine light will begin to flash after a couple seconds. Take note of the flashes. It will flash a number of times, pause for a sec, another number, then paus for 3 seconds or so. The long pause is the the break between numbers. It will flash like once, pause, two times, long pause...then it will flash like 5 times, pause, 5 more times. when you get a 55 code thats the end of the codes. 12 is a normal code that is always set in my computer. Typically because I have disconnected my battery for something.

Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out.

 

Throttle sensor? Where would I find that little gem? That seems to make the most sense since the drivers side cylinders don't seem to be getting any gas.
OK, so where do I go to get an interpretation of the code numbers?
Thanks for the contunued clues!

 

For the codes, you can go HERE.
The throttle position sensor is mounted on the throttle body. It's usually mounted on the driver's side of the throttle body, inline with the butterfly valves, and is held on with 2 screws.
If ya need more help, just ask. Oh yea, if you need help regarding a code, please post the code.

 

Thanks for the codes and how to directions. I couldn't wait, since this is the first bit of hope I have had all weekend in figuring out what is wrong. I went out in the dark and read the codes. So what to make of this, I don't know. There were two codes; 12 and 33. #12 says that battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles. I have not disconnected the battery, ever, and what is the PCM? #33 says, "A/C clutch relay circuit." I don't have air conditioning either.

So now what? I was hoping for something to be wrong so I could fix it, but apparently no such beginners luck.

The 3 cylinders on the dirvers side are not getting gas. They are getting spark, I checked that. After running the engine for about 3 minutes, I could still put my hand on the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. The other side was definitely too hot to touch.

Might I say how much I appreciate the help you have given so far. Thanks to everyone who has helped.
Dwight

 

Solved the nasty little problem of the left bank of cylinders not getting gas and causing lurching, stalling and lack of power.
First I replaced the fuel filter thinking I had gotten a batch of dirty or bad gas. Then replaced the plugs, rotor, distributor cap, plug wires and the thing still didn't run. Checked for vacuum leaks and shorts in wires to no avail. So took it to a local, out of his garage mechanic. His diagnosis was the same as my first guess, a bad injector. Replaced it and cured all of my ills. The amazing thing is he charged me less than what it would have cost me to buy the parts and install them myself. I figure that is some deal!
Thanks to everyone for their encouragement, hope and advice.

 

Glad to hear ya got it fixed.