92 5.2 magnum stock cam specs?
I`ve been all over trying to find the stock cam specs on the 92 5.2 I have out of a Dakota. But to no avail have I found anything other than speculation that the 318 cam is hotter than the 360 cam (which makes sense for the power ratings)... But that is for simular year 5.2 vs 5.9.
Here`s the reason I ask, I have recently acquired a 318 magnum that was pulled from a 92 Dakota. The plan is to drop it in my 99 Intrepid that is being converterted to RWD. I also have a stock cam from an 01 ram with a 360 and the measurements I made match what I`m finding online. I want to know if the newer cam`s specs of 251/261 advertised duration .432 valve lift and 109 int LSA will be an improvement over the earlier 318 cam???
I already plan to do the timing chain and make my own plenum plate (as well as mod the keg and bore the TB to a true twin 50). So I really won`t be out much time to do a quick cam swap. I just want to know if it`s gonna be worth it. I realize I`ll probably be lucky to gain 10hp, but it all adds up in the end
Here`s the reason I ask, I have recently acquired a 318 magnum that was pulled from a 92 Dakota. The plan is to drop it in my 99 Intrepid that is being converterted to RWD. I also have a stock cam from an 01 ram with a 360 and the measurements I made match what I`m finding online. I want to know if the newer cam`s specs of 251/261 advertised duration .432 valve lift and 109 int LSA will be an improvement over the earlier 318 cam???
I already plan to do the timing chain and make my own plenum plate (as well as mod the keg and bore the TB to a true twin 50). So I really won`t be out much time to do a quick cam swap. I just want to know if it`s gonna be worth it. I realize I`ll probably be lucky to gain 10hp, but it all adds up in the end
Check out this site. http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/cam.html tons of other specs about the engine. It is also located in the FAQ2 in this section. That sounds like a good project. I would love to see it as it goes along.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; Mar 12, 2010 at 12:23 PM.
Check out this site. http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/cam.html tons of other specs about the engine. It is also located in the FAQ2 in this section. That sounds like a good project. I would love to see it as it goes along.

EDIT: does anyone know if the 95 318s still had 18.2lb/hr injectors? I only ask because the PCM I have is for a 95 318, not a 92...
Last edited by blackskyracing; Mar 12, 2010 at 07:23 PM.
Yes it is 18.2
5.2 Magnum 92-95 18.2
5.2 Magnum 96-01 23.2
5.9 Magnum 93-95 24.5
5.9 Magnum
96-01 23.2 (Seimens/Chrysler P/N 53030778)
For more info on fuel rates check out this post. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...injectors.html
Again it is also listed in the FAQ2.
5.2 Magnum 92-95 18.2
5.2 Magnum 96-01 23.2
5.9 Magnum 93-95 24.5
5.9 Magnum
96-01 23.2 (Seimens/Chrysler P/N 53030778)For more info on fuel rates check out this post. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...injectors.html
Again it is also listed in the FAQ2.
Last edited by Crazy4x4RT; Mar 13, 2010 at 01:29 AM.
Ok thanks for that, that was the only thing I could find for flow rates too, I remember it was posted here years ago as a quote directly from an MP engineer... The only reason I asked is I saw a couple posts saying a 95 ram computer wouldn`t run a 92-93 dakota engine??? Makes no sense to me, same sensors, injector size, EGR control and all that jazz...
Do you think switching to 23.2 injectors would throw the computer for a complete loop? I have the set out of the 01 ram and I also have two sets out of 2.7 intrepids complete with wiring harness. Or would making that big of a step completely throw the fuel map off? I`ve been contemplating doing a quick clean up on the ports and rounding the sharp edges in the combustion chamber. I wonder if the added air would help counteract the bigger injectors. I guess if I do all that I worry about the little 18.2s ability to keep up and not lean out really bad up top...
Do you think switching to 23.2 injectors would throw the computer for a complete loop? I have the set out of the 01 ram and I also have two sets out of 2.7 intrepids complete with wiring harness. Or would making that big of a step completely throw the fuel map off? I`ve been contemplating doing a quick clean up on the ports and rounding the sharp edges in the combustion chamber. I wonder if the added air would help counteract the bigger injectors. I guess if I do all that I worry about the little 18.2s ability to keep up and not lean out really bad up top...
The rams computer can run a Dakota engine and vice versa. But the years is the only difference. 92-92 Dakota has an cable driving speedo. I'm sure the Ram is the same. The 94-95 Ram and Dakota use an electronic speedo. 95318SLT is using a Rams computer in his Dakota.
You should be okay on 23.2 injectors. The computer should adjust enough. A few others have installed 24 from a mustang. Which has multiple nozzles holes ours just has one. Yes port the heads and intake and exhaust manifolds to match the gasket.
You should be okay on 23.2 injectors. The computer should adjust enough. A few others have installed 24 from a mustang. Which has multiple nozzles holes ours just has one. Yes port the heads and intake and exhaust manifolds to match the gasket.
Yeah, I was contemplating the mustang injectors too for the same reason... I`ll have to search for one of those threads when I get to a computer (on my phone right now).
Another quick question that I`m sure has been answered before, should I bother with shorty headers or do the early manifolds flow good enough not to bother? If I did get headers that are supposed to bolt in for truck application would they have the large collector/flange that the early manifolds do?
Now back to the heads, for a stock cam/rockers is it worth it to go through all the trouble of opening up the pushrod pinch and profiling the guide boss? Or should I just clean up the short sides/ bowls and gasket match everything? I have a hard time restraining myself once the iron chips start flying... :P
Another quick question that I`m sure has been answered before, should I bother with shorty headers or do the early manifolds flow good enough not to bother? If I did get headers that are supposed to bolt in for truck application would they have the large collector/flange that the early manifolds do?
Now back to the heads, for a stock cam/rockers is it worth it to go through all the trouble of opening up the pushrod pinch and profiling the guide boss? Or should I just clean up the short sides/ bowls and gasket match everything? I have a hard time restraining myself once the iron chips start flying... :P
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Yes you should get shortie headers. They still flow better then stock manifolds. But the only thing is your doing your swap, who knows if you have enough room. I would wait till you find out how it all fits in there.
I thought you were steeping up the cam? The stock cam is for a truck. The power is set for lower RPM's.
As for opening up the heads, as long as you have time to do it correctly sure why not.
I thought you were steeping up the cam? The stock cam is for a truck. The power is set for lower RPM's.
As for opening up the heads, as long as you have time to do it correctly sure why not.
I`ve already had my hands in dropping an old LA 318 in an identical car (literally the same color and everything). There`s enough room on the sides to hang a turbo if one wanted... We used center dump truck manifolds and I was considering block hugger headers, but the magnum engine mounts for the dakota look like they`re compatable, and placed correctly for the car`s stock engine mounts. Using those would make center exit exhaust a problem... There should be enough room to deal with the stock exit magnum manifolds/headers though.
I am stepping up the cam to a better factory piece, but it`s still a factory cam... I found out that the factory installs the cams 3* retarded in these engines and I have offset keys
I think the keys I have are 5* keys though... But that should move the powerband up a little.
Oh I`m about to have hip sugery, so I`ll have LOTS of time to massage the heads lol It just sucks that I won`t be able to do some real work on the car before my surgery, or after for a couple weeks
Thanks for all the help BTW, I`m sure I could have used the search function and answered my questions. But in my case I like to double check my research with a reliable source...
I am stepping up the cam to a better factory piece, but it`s still a factory cam... I found out that the factory installs the cams 3* retarded in these engines and I have offset keys
I think the keys I have are 5* keys though... But that should move the powerband up a little.Oh I`m about to have hip sugery, so I`ll have LOTS of time to massage the heads lol It just sucks that I won`t be able to do some real work on the car before my surgery, or after for a couple weeks

Thanks for all the help BTW, I`m sure I could have used the search function and answered my questions. But in my case I like to double check my research with a reliable source...
Well, I ended up having to buy a core transmission for some much needed parts... That kinda blew my head gasket/bolts budget
But I decided to clean things up the best I could from the port side and since I have a charge account with the Snap-On guy and my account was almost paid off, I found a reason "buy" some new carbides
Holy crap do they cut a lot better than the ones I already had... Almost got all the porting done I wanted, gotta go in for surgery at 6:30 in the morning
I`ll post back with a link to some pics when I start feeling better
But I decided to clean things up the best I could from the port side and since I have a charge account with the Snap-On guy and my account was almost paid off, I found a reason "buy" some new carbides
Holy crap do they cut a lot better than the ones I already had... Almost got all the porting done I wanted, gotta go in for surgery at 6:30 in the morning
I`ll post back with a link to some pics when I start feeling better


