Fuel pump died
#1
Fuel pump died
Not sure how many of you have this issue. I figure I'll ask anyway
I had my fuel pump replaced about 3 years ago ( man did I get ripped off. )
Would anyone here know what the warranty is on a fuel pump?
Secondly would anyone here recommend a fuel pump? MFG OEM looks to be a cool 375 online and 500 at local auto parts store
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
I had my fuel pump replaced about 3 years ago ( man did I get ripped off. )
Would anyone here know what the warranty is on a fuel pump?
Secondly would anyone here recommend a fuel pump? MFG OEM looks to be a cool 375 online and 500 at local auto parts store
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
#2
#3
I own my own auto repair shop. Most shops (including me) give a 1 year 10K-12K mile warranty.
I've had good luck with Airtex fuel pumps. I HATE Airtex water pumps. Delphi makes a good fuel pump also. Those are the only names that I can think of off hand that I've used.
Depending on what brand of gas you use and how much you drive depends on how often you should change your fuel filter. Because fuel filters are so cheap I'd recommend you do one once a year. I use Chevron and the fuel filter for me is always clean so now I do one every other year. I write the date and mileage with a sharpie on the fuel filter so I know when I last did it.
A.J.
I've had good luck with Airtex fuel pumps. I HATE Airtex water pumps. Delphi makes a good fuel pump also. Those are the only names that I can think of off hand that I've used.
Depending on what brand of gas you use and how much you drive depends on how often you should change your fuel filter. Because fuel filters are so cheap I'd recommend you do one once a year. I use Chevron and the fuel filter for me is always clean so now I do one every other year. I write the date and mileage with a sharpie on the fuel filter so I know when I last did it.
A.J.
#4
I own my own auto repair shop. Most shops (including me) give a 1 year 10K-12K mile warranty.
I've had good luck with Airtex fuel pumps. I HATE Airtex water pumps. Delphi makes a good fuel pump also. Those are the only names that I can think of off hand that I've used.
Depending on what brand of gas you use and how much you drive depends on how often you should change your fuel filter. Because fuel filters are so cheap I'd recommend you do one once a year. I use Chevron and the fuel filter for me is always clean so now I do one every other year. I write the date and mileage with a sharpie on the fuel filter so I know when I last did it.
A.J.
I've had good luck with Airtex fuel pumps. I HATE Airtex water pumps. Delphi makes a good fuel pump also. Those are the only names that I can think of off hand that I've used.
Depending on what brand of gas you use and how much you drive depends on how often you should change your fuel filter. Because fuel filters are so cheap I'd recommend you do one once a year. I use Chevron and the fuel filter for me is always clean so now I do one every other year. I write the date and mileage with a sharpie on the fuel filter so I know when I last did it.
A.J.
I agree 100% with changing it once a year or atleast every other. Don't be like my old man who said he did and after 18 years i pulled the original filter off and got black garbage fuel and soot dumped in my face >.< never pleasant..takes a good week to get rid of the smell to boot..
#5
I found some good deals on fuel pumps surprisingly on Amazon with names I recognize.
This whole situation hit me at the worst possible moment as I was already juggling 3 projects (shower stall gut, rebuild. My front porch gut and rebuild, and my new hobby my 18 foot Starcraft boat.) Murphy is setting me on fire.
So... Now that Betty the wonder truck got jealous and wanted some attention she's gonna get it! Pulling the bed to look at the old pump and replace. I am looking to order the 22 gallon tank as well as 15 gallons just never seems enough. I also need to replace my hitch as there is a CHUNK missing where it attaches to the frame. It's rust that got organized. The frame looks great just the hitch is toast.
I'll post picks of the bed pull (8 whole bolts... not complicated.) Also I know to disconnect the lights.
I want to know if there are any tricks to mounting the 22 gallon tank. Does it require different straps than the 15 gallon tank? If it does not that's great. I do seem to remember that the tank only differs with the bulbous areas and sports some handles.
I really appreciate your time guys.
Unrelated but I already bought upper and lower ball joints, 2 front shocks, and was going to look at the control arms to make sure she's solid. I am going to be so busy this summer.
Thanks!
This whole situation hit me at the worst possible moment as I was already juggling 3 projects (shower stall gut, rebuild. My front porch gut and rebuild, and my new hobby my 18 foot Starcraft boat.) Murphy is setting me on fire.
So... Now that Betty the wonder truck got jealous and wanted some attention she's gonna get it! Pulling the bed to look at the old pump and replace. I am looking to order the 22 gallon tank as well as 15 gallons just never seems enough. I also need to replace my hitch as there is a CHUNK missing where it attaches to the frame. It's rust that got organized. The frame looks great just the hitch is toast.
I'll post picks of the bed pull (8 whole bolts... not complicated.) Also I know to disconnect the lights.
I want to know if there are any tricks to mounting the 22 gallon tank. Does it require different straps than the 15 gallon tank? If it does not that's great. I do seem to remember that the tank only differs with the bulbous areas and sports some handles.
I really appreciate your time guys.
Unrelated but I already bought upper and lower ball joints, 2 front shocks, and was going to look at the control arms to make sure she's solid. I am going to be so busy this summer.
Thanks!
#6
I put a 22 gal. tank in place of the 15 on my 94 last fall it went in just like I was replacing the 15 with another 15. same pump either way.
If you want OEM find someone that sells Carter pumps as that is what OEM was.
there is a local "Federated" that sells them. about $160. I thought I saw them on Rock Auto a couple weeks ago for ~$125-130.
and the tank comes down easy just 2 bolts it seems easier than pulling the bed
If you want OEM find someone that sells Carter pumps as that is what OEM was.
there is a local "Federated" that sells them. about $160. I thought I saw them on Rock Auto a couple weeks ago for ~$125-130.
and the tank comes down easy just 2 bolts it seems easier than pulling the bed
#7
Okay
Progress so far. First I found out I have a returnless fuel pump. After I ordered a return pump. Oh well. It worked out I got the OEM BOSCH for $160.
I believe I already have a 22 gallon tank. It says also 22 in the serial numbers.
Pulled the bed to save my gas 3/4 of a tank right now. I also want to be able to test the sending unit and make sure my gas gauge works again.
I am cleaning up the surface rust and going to paint the frame as a preventative measure. I love this truck and I want to keep it running for as long as possible.
I also purchased a new Curt hitch to replace my organized rust hitch that I have now.
Progress so far. First I found out I have a returnless fuel pump. After I ordered a return pump. Oh well. It worked out I got the OEM BOSCH for $160.
I believe I already have a 22 gallon tank. It says also 22 in the serial numbers.
Pulled the bed to save my gas 3/4 of a tank right now. I also want to be able to test the sending unit and make sure my gas gauge works again.
I am cleaning up the surface rust and going to paint the frame as a preventative measure. I love this truck and I want to keep it running for as long as possible.
I also purchased a new Curt hitch to replace my organized rust hitch that I have now.
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#9
Thankfully the fuel pump SHOULD be here tomorrow. Should have been today but that's the USPS for you.
Got the last two bolts that were destroyed off and the crumbling pieces of hitch came off.
Now I did apply the grinder to her frame and removed a lot of the pitted rust clumps. The primer I bought is designed to set into rust and create a bond for the paint I plan on applying tomorrow.
Some of the pictures of my work so far. I am not trying to prime any spots that seem to have solid paint.
I missed a few spots as the lights were going out on me after work.
I look at the under bed tire mount. The only bad part is the piece of rust that holds the tire to the cable. The cable itself seems very solid. I may go and find a cable clamp and a purchase a piece of powder coated steel to replace the crap I have now as I don't want to lose my spare.
I also look at that rear gear housing and think... NEXT year and it'll be Posi and a new box.
I wish I could spend more time on my truck but given that I am also working on my 1988 StarCraft 180 Super sport and the 88 Johnson OB. My Bathroom, and my front porch, I've been kind of busy and my card is full for the summer. Keeps me busy and sane. If you guys want to see the boat pics let me know.
Got the last two bolts that were destroyed off and the crumbling pieces of hitch came off.
Now I did apply the grinder to her frame and removed a lot of the pitted rust clumps. The primer I bought is designed to set into rust and create a bond for the paint I plan on applying tomorrow.
Some of the pictures of my work so far. I am not trying to prime any spots that seem to have solid paint.
I missed a few spots as the lights were going out on me after work.
I look at the under bed tire mount. The only bad part is the piece of rust that holds the tire to the cable. The cable itself seems very solid. I may go and find a cable clamp and a purchase a piece of powder coated steel to replace the crap I have now as I don't want to lose my spare.
I also look at that rear gear housing and think... NEXT year and it'll be Posi and a new box.
I wish I could spend more time on my truck but given that I am also working on my 1988 StarCraft 180 Super sport and the 88 Johnson OB. My Bathroom, and my front porch, I've been kind of busy and my card is full for the summer. Keeps me busy and sane. If you guys want to see the boat pics let me know.
#10
So I go to put the fuel pump in and now I have a working gas gauge again. I just need to pickup a wing clip to hold the fuel line to the regulator. Here's to hoping tomorrow at some auto parts locations.
I called the Dealer about our roll over valve/vent that doesn't come with ANY fuel pumps except OEM's. The guy told me sorry we don't carry that part in stock. Then he told me if I had purchased a Manufacturer's part it would be on there. Except I don't have 500 bucks to just **** away on a pump.
In case ANYONE here doesn't know how to remove the old one. Don't get frustrated like I did and snap off the tube with a pair of pliers. I ended up using the back end of a breaker bar to pop it out.
Now the assembly of this part is 3 pieces. The first piece you'll see from the bottom. It's a cover that holds back the second piece, it's a container with a large ball bearing inside. The third piece is thoroughly wedged into the rubber grommet. This is where the breaker bar comes in, as I placed the handle end in to the plastic housing and pushed down on the pump top until the whole piece came out.
I then had to remove the damn grommet to reapply this "vent/rollover valve" to the new pump. I popped the grommet into the new pump first, and then the reassembled part had to be pushed in carefully. It wasn't fun but the part's tougher than it looks.
The other option I thought about doing since my hose lead was busted on this part was just taking a screw and sealing that vent. I figure if I flip my truck I've got bigger problems than a roll over valve.
I'll paint the frame tomorrow morning, and hopefully be done with the fuel system. It's so nice to have a gas gauge again, no more guessing when I mix in local/long distance travel with my odometer.
Side note: I get this feeling some of the parts that were once available are no longer available because Chrysler stopped paying the companies that make the part.
Case in point: My Dad drives a 1500. It came with a separate oil cooler for his engine. Except when it died and he tried to get the replacement part the dealer denied it existed, and an engineer at Chrysler denied that it existed. He found out later that the parts were so back ordered and that was due to Chrysler stopping payment on a lot of parts.
I am guessing that's what happened to the commonality of the roll over valve/vent.
I called the Dealer about our roll over valve/vent that doesn't come with ANY fuel pumps except OEM's. The guy told me sorry we don't carry that part in stock. Then he told me if I had purchased a Manufacturer's part it would be on there. Except I don't have 500 bucks to just **** away on a pump.
In case ANYONE here doesn't know how to remove the old one. Don't get frustrated like I did and snap off the tube with a pair of pliers. I ended up using the back end of a breaker bar to pop it out.
Now the assembly of this part is 3 pieces. The first piece you'll see from the bottom. It's a cover that holds back the second piece, it's a container with a large ball bearing inside. The third piece is thoroughly wedged into the rubber grommet. This is where the breaker bar comes in, as I placed the handle end in to the plastic housing and pushed down on the pump top until the whole piece came out.
I then had to remove the damn grommet to reapply this "vent/rollover valve" to the new pump. I popped the grommet into the new pump first, and then the reassembled part had to be pushed in carefully. It wasn't fun but the part's tougher than it looks.
The other option I thought about doing since my hose lead was busted on this part was just taking a screw and sealing that vent. I figure if I flip my truck I've got bigger problems than a roll over valve.
I'll paint the frame tomorrow morning, and hopefully be done with the fuel system. It's so nice to have a gas gauge again, no more guessing when I mix in local/long distance travel with my odometer.
Side note: I get this feeling some of the parts that were once available are no longer available because Chrysler stopped paying the companies that make the part.
Case in point: My Dad drives a 1500. It came with a separate oil cooler for his engine. Except when it died and he tried to get the replacement part the dealer denied it existed, and an engineer at Chrysler denied that it existed. He found out later that the parts were so back ordered and that was due to Chrysler stopping payment on a lot of parts.
I am guessing that's what happened to the commonality of the roll over valve/vent.
Last edited by DirtyHarry83; 07-08-2012 at 12:57 AM.