1992 Dodge Dakota No Power at Fuel Pump
#1
1992 Dodge Dakota No Power at Fuel Pump
1992 Dodge Dakota
5.2 L
4 Wheel Drive
Automatic.
Just bought this Dakota, cranks fine will not start.
If you spray gasoline directly into the throttle body this truck runs fine. I was unable to convince my son to sit on the engine and spray the fuel in it while I drove the truck down the road. It is hard to get much of kids these days.
Ok so here is what I have tried. I looked for a wiring diagram that matches this Dakota here and Google but did not have any luck.
5.2 L
4 Wheel Drive
Automatic.
Just bought this Dakota, cranks fine will not start.
If you spray gasoline directly into the throttle body this truck runs fine. I was unable to convince my son to sit on the engine and spray the fuel in it while I drove the truck down the road. It is hard to get much of kids these days.
Ok so here is what I have tried. I looked for a wiring diagram that matches this Dakota here and Google but did not have any luck.
#2
So I check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. See picture above.
Working from right to left or from the bottom up.
Dark green wire with black stripe = 12 volts for about 1 second then 0 zero volts.
Dark blue wire with yellow stripe = 7.9 volts.
Dark blue wire with red stripe = 12 volts continuous.
White wire with black stripe = 0 zero volts.
White wire without stripe = 0 zero volts.
#3
#4
It has an auto shutdown circuit, if the computer doesn't get a signal from the crank and cam sensors it shuts the fuel pump down. Hence the 1 burst of power then nothing.You might check for the 3 wire splice problem listed in the FAQ SECTION which is dealing with that fuel pump circuit and there is a FSM for a newer year truck I believe 95, in there also that would have a wiring diagram that should be the same as your 92.
#5
I would do what Steve says to and here is a TSB with a diagram that may help you. IDK if this TSB applies to your problem or if it is the sensors or the wire cluster as Steve points out also causes pump issues. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/08-33-94.htm
#6
SteveDes,
I did look at the splice connector and thanks for the information. It did look good, corrosion wasn't broken. However, looking good and functioning good are not the same thing. What I should have done was run a continuity test. So I will pull it back apart and double and triple check that. Thanks again for the information.
I did look at the splice connector and thanks for the information. It did look good, corrosion wasn't broken. However, looking good and functioning good are not the same thing. What I should have done was run a continuity test. So I will pull it back apart and double and triple check that. Thanks again for the information.
#7
onemore94dak,
Yes the TSB does apply to this truck that is very interesting I might as well order that harness and fix this problem while I am at it. The fuel gage does not work at all but I am not sure these are related. Thanks for the information!
Yes the TSB does apply to this truck that is very interesting I might as well order that harness and fix this problem while I am at it. The fuel gage does not work at all but I am not sure these are related. Thanks for the information!
Last edited by robomow; 08-02-2015 at 12:34 AM.
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#8
So I will also see if I can find a procedure to check and see if the crank and cam position sensors are working. I should note though the crank sensor was replaced about six months ago. The old one was kind of melted on the end looked awful but was apparently working. (My step son is the guy I bought the truck from.) Anyway so we replaced the Engine computer back then and the truck started right up. The very next day the truck quit again. Unbelievably we got a bad computer. So we picked up a third one and it had run ever since until it quit again this time.
Last edited by robomow; 08-02-2015 at 12:35 AM.
#9
#10
My fuel gauge didn't work either and I replaced the pump (Broke the rollover valve) it still didn't work. It turned out that I never had to change the pump the pump that was in had been installed 90 degrees off. I got another pump from the junk yard with a good rollover valve because you can't get new ones and no one saves the used ones. I'm telling you so that you don't end up copying someone else mistake like I did. That cost me $205! The float arm should point to the front along the length of the truck. I have the 22 gallon tank.