When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For the driveshaft, currently I have my orig. dakota driveshaft.
I found a conversion u-joint that adapts the dakota driveshaft to the explorer 8.8 flange.
Here it is installed
However, I believe the driveshaft is too short.
Below is a picture of the yoke. If you notice the black mark. That is marked at the lip of the seal, with the truck setting on its wheels.
I am going to jack the truck up and see how much it comes out with the axle hanging.
Assuming it does not change much, I am going to get a new driveshaft made 1.5 in. longer
From what I have read, it should be 3/4 to 1 in. with the truck setting on its wheels.
Last edited by 93 ragtop; Jan 18, 2018 at 09:24 AM.
Moving on, I put a set of poly spring bushings in. (energy suspensions 5.2107R) Sorry but I dont have a very good picture. The one below is the only one I can find right now.
In addition, I put new spring shackles on the truck.
I will say, with these bushings it is stiffer.
That is one awesome job, you really made that 8.8 look like it belongs there. I've been reading threads to catch up on things a bit (been absent a while) and was stopped in my tracks seeing how this turned out. I also saw that this made the Dodge Forum front page, big congrats 93 RT!
I noticed that you cleaned up the frame in the rear, but then I saw a post from a few days ago (in a thread by Azboyinmi) where you said you were inspired by tbugden's use of electrolysis - and that's the method you used to clean things up. Well doggone it, we need pictures of that, if you got any! Ever since tbug posted his electrolysis info I've been working a plan in my head to do that to my rear-half frame rails. My plan involves building a box around each rail to hold the electrolysis solution, but I'm still debating how well it might work. Did you use electrolysis on the rails too, or did you wire brush those?
that driveshaft will work fine as is..... you don't want the yoke to bottom against the trans output shaft. If you jack up the body and let the rear end hang (stretch the springs) it should pull out slightly. But how often do you run extended? never. If you put anything in the bed to a point the back of the truck sags much ata ll, the shaft will pull in towards the trans. Hit bumps, it will go both ways (in and out) for a second... there is PLENTY of yoke engaging the output shaft as it is now. not worth worrying about for that little bit of change. if you hit a bump and extend things then it compresses it will SMACK the output shaft within the yoke which is the worst thing for it.
That is one awesome job, you really made that 8.8 look like it belongs there. I've been reading threads to catch up on things a bit (been absent a while) and was stopped in my tracks seeing how this turned out. I also saw that this made the Dodge Forum front page, big congrats 93 RT!
I noticed that you cleaned up the frame in the rear, but then I saw a post from a few days ago (in a thread by Azboyinmi) where you said you were inspired by tbugden's use of electrolysis - and that's the method you used to clean things up. Well doggone it, we need pictures of that, if you got any! Ever since tbug posted his electrolysis info I've been working a plan in my head to do that to my rear-half frame rails. My plan involves building a box around each rail to hold the electrolysis solution, but I'm still debating how well it might work. Did you use electrolysis on the rails too, or did you wire brush those?
Glad to see you back on the forum!! And thank you for the kind words.....
I need to get my pictures together and finish out this post. I just wire brushed the frame, scraped etc. Then I sealed it with the por15. Cross pieces, spring mounts, etc, I used a large trash can and my battery charger to clean up.
I thought about what you said, building a box etc. but could not see a way to do it with the cab, transmission, etc still on the truck.
that driveshaft will work fine as is..... you don't want the yoke to bottom against the trans output shaft. If you jack up the body and let the rear end hang (stretch the springs) it should pull out slightly. But how often do you run extended? never. If you put anything in the bed to a point the back of the truck sags much ata ll, the shaft will pull in towards the trans. Hit bumps, it will go both ways (in and out) for a second... there is PLENTY of yoke engaging the output shaft as it is now. not worth worrying about for that little bit of change. if you hit a bump and extend things then it compresses it will SMACK the output shaft within the yoke which is the worst thing for it.
Actually, when you look at the mark, it is at the lip of the seal dust cover. So the bushing is further up in there .
The nv3500 is 3/4 inch shorter then the nv2500 the truck came with.....
Although, I do not have the measurement, I believe the 8.8 is shorter then the 8.25.
Before having the driveshaft lengthened, I had a slight vibration at cruise. let off the gas, it went away, or accelerate, it went away.
With the new driveshaft, that vibration is gone. It could have been out of balance, but I suspect it was from the front yoke being pulled back 1.5 in.
Also, you have it backwards, when the suspension is unloaded, the driveshaft moves into the transfer case.
When the axle drops, the spring arches, in reality, there is little change in the distance between the loaded and unloaded position, but there is some. Never the less, the driveshaft moves in, and at that point, I have 3/4 in from the lip of the seal dust boot cover.....
Last edited by 93 ragtop; Mar 28, 2018 at 06:23 AM.
Actually, when you look at the mark, it is at the lip of the seal dust cover. So the bushing is further up in there .
The nv3500 is 3/4 inch shorter then the nv2500 the truck came with.....
Although, I do not have the measurement, I believe the 8.8 is shorter then the 8.25.
Before having the driveshaft lengthened, I had a slight vibration at cruise. let off the gas, it went away, or accelerate, it went away.
With the new driveshaft, that vibration is gone. It could have been out of balance, but I suspect it was from the front yoke being pulled back 1.5 in.
Also, you have it backwards, when the suspension is unloaded, the driveshaft moves into the transfer case.
When the axle drops, the spring arches, in reality, there is little change in the distance between the loaded and unloaded position, but there is some. Never the less, the driveshaft moves in, and at that point, I have 3/4 in from the lip of the seal dust boot cover.....
The elimination of the vibration suggests you did the right thing lengthening the drive shaft. The primary consequence with minimal entry into the tailshaft is that with the yoke too far away from the tailshaft bushing (and minimal engagement of the bushing), there's a greater chance that the front of the shaft will wobble or vibrate and wear out the bushing prematurely. My shaft appears to be 5/8's to 3/4 too short with the NV3500, and I'm a little concerned about it. No notable vibration, but I'm considering lengthening it just to be safe. The only reason I haven't yet is that I may eventually upgrade the rear end, and it might be best to do it at that point.
Last edited by ragged89; Mar 28, 2018 at 12:12 PM.
