Might want to check the refrigerant charge. You may have over charged the system when you added a can and then found the fan clutch was bad. An over-charged system is worse than an undercharged one. I also have an '01. If you have rear air like me the charge is 2.44 Lbs of R-134a.

R-134a is a pain to charge correctly, it don't like air or the moisture in the air, so if you inadvertantly got air in the system it won't work right either.

Over-charge symtoms: blows hot with high head and suction pressure, suction line (lager of the two refrigerant lines often referred to as the "cold line" on this forum) is hot to the touch (supposed to feel cool or even cold to touch). System may even cycle off or commpressor clutch won't even engage at all because the high pressure switch has cut out to protect the compressor.

Under-charge symtoms: cools good at first, then no cooling at all, suction line has ice forming on it, or system cuts off on low pressure switch or compressor clutch won't engage because low pressure switch is tripped.

Air in system symptoms: similar performance as over-charge with incorrect pressures.
Example of incorrect pressure: your gauges read 60psig @ 50DegF when R-134a should read about 45psig @ 50DegF.

First try all the things MG said to do, we had a similar disscusion to this one a few months ago and MG, Kensai, cesspool, myself and maybe a few others bounced around ideas and shared things we each hadtried to improve the a/c system, and most of the things we did were inexpensive, easy to do and quite effective. I think the thread was a/c system bites, I started it, and found some highly inteligent people to converse with, I'm not sure if any of 'em are a/c guys, but I am and I can tell you that doing things like wrapping the "cold line" in insulation tape is common pratice in my field certified or not these guys are really smart when it comes to their D's, and most willing to share their knowledge.

Ifyou still have problems, take it to a shop and tell 'em to "weigh in a factory charge".

 

well i will ask my mechanic next time i talk to him..... but to me, he's knowledgeable, and i hope he thinks about those thinks.

 

Akgriffin,

I also have a dark interior, and living in Texas, we are also enduring the 100+ days now that the rain is over, but it is back for a few days because of Storm Erin. If your A/C is working within parameters and you already fixed your Efan and your clutch fan is working okay and you have no blockages on the condenser coil, I really recommend you to go out and buy a dashmat. When I installed a dash mat on my dark dash, it dropped the heat generated by the dash by 50 degrees on the worst 100+ days. And with the dashmat, when I use the A/C, it can quickly cool off the interior when both A/C blowers are on max. Before I bought the dashmat, I had to keep my A/C on the med-high to high settings for most of the time. Now after installing the dashmat, I keep my A/C running at the lowest fan or 2nd to lowest fan setting.

Otherwise, if the dashmat does not help, I would check the blend door within the evaporator/heater core as you might get some hot air mixing up with the A/C. A quick do it yourself test to see if the blend door is the problem is to bypass the heater core. If you notice a very sudden drop in A/C temperature, then you have a blend door problem. To bypass the heater core, you can go buy a 5/8th or 3/4 inch hose coupler. Remove the two heater hoses located near the steering column on the firewall and install the two hoses to the coupler. Make sure you plug up the two openings to prevent contaminates going to your heater core during the test.